How to Un-Seize a Hatch Lock Barrel

[Robsey]

Taken from my Work In Progress.

Assuming that you cannot unlock your boot or tailgate.

This is how I did mine.

It can be discussed here -
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=17040

Get into the load area of your car by folding down the rear seat backs.

Undo seven torx screws from the hatch inner trim panel - and a further two from the end of the plastic trims -
T20 or T25 screwdriver or similar tool, I think.



(You cannot fully remove the panel until the hatch is open.)
So just pull the upper part towards you - you can now see what lurks behind.



Pull the bottom rod upwards and the hatch catch will release.

Push the hatch open.
Remove the last two self-tappers on either side of the catch and fully remove the inner cover.


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Lock removal was as follows.

Just two M5 shouldered nuts (8mm socket) hold the lock in place.

The central locking motor rod is fitted with the same style of flip-over retaining latch as you find on the door lock linkages.
Release this and pull out the operating bar (sort of L shaped).

You need to wriggle the lock button off it's retaining bolts and off the locking catch operating lever.

Withdraw the lock from the hatch.

[Robsey]

There is a small circlip that holds an operating cam onto the lock barrel. (Top of the photo).



This is easy enough to remove.
Then slide off the operating cam.

It is at this point that you must insert the key into the lock barrel.



Knock the barrel out of the housing.
Now - if you did not insert the key, you may be met by a shower of wafers and operating springs as they eject themselves from the barrel.

The barrel here looks fine - and quite clean.



The housing was full of crud and muck.
So I cleaned it all out.





Reassemble the barrel into the housing.
There is a ball-bearing on a spring.
This is not inserted until after you put the barrel in.

You need to line up the hole in the barrel with the hole in the housing by pressing the release button until the holes line up.
Drop in the spring, drop in the ball-bearing.



And release the button.

Then push the operating cam back on and refit the circlip.

Check the operation of the key in the barrel.

Refit the lock assembly, operating rods.
Job done.

[Robsey]

In extreme cases, you may need to clean the wafers and springs.

Vauxhall built up their locks with grease for lubrication.
BUT other manufacturers suggest using graphite paste or similar.
The thought being that dirt and crud will stick to a sticky grease or oil.
But not to graphite.

Here is how I stripped and cleaned my camper-van lock barrel / wafers.
Different make, but very similar in construction / style and methodology.

Slowly withdraw the key with one hand and prepare to collect each wafer as they are released from the barrel.

When inserted, the key pulls the wafers into the barrel.

Key removed allows the wafers to come out - pushed out by their springs.



Keep them in order.
Collect the tiny spring for each wafer too.



Clean everything with carb cleaner / brake cleaner or similar.
(Lock barrel, wafers and springs).

Ensure everything is clean and dry.

Then reassembe with some graphite paste worked in for lubrication.

Then refit your barrel to the housing and so on.