How2 - Service your Cavalier...

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Please note replies to this thread will be deleted for the sake of ease of use for others, if you want to query this topic please raise a thread in the discussion forum.
Also any top down pictures of reasonably standard looking engine bays that can be used as per Haynes to point out where things are for the guide would be appreciated.


Dead simple How2 this, just running over the basics, oil changes, spark plugs, etc...

Firstly a schedule of when various service parts need changing and checks that should be run, worth mentioning that I have written this with the service intervals I use as a guideline as opposed to the recommended, although I have included the Haynes recommendations too.
Then once I've covered these I'll add "replies" to this thread expanding on the key service areas.

Please note, this How2 is written with the novice in mind and hence is quite basic, but hopefully as you read through you might (as I did) recall not having bled the brakes in a while or something like... anyway read on and enjoy.

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Weekly;
Worth mentioning, regular repeated top ups are indicative of problems that require fixing.

• Engine oil level check;
  • 1. locate and withdraw dipstick,
    2. wipe clean with white rag or tissue paper*, reinsert and withdraw again,
    ...*Once the oil has been wiped check the rag for the colour and any deposits. The oil should be reasonably clear and free from any deposits...
    3. check the level of oil is between the "MIN" and "MAX"...
    ...It is worth mentioning that too much oil can be as bad as not enough, due to increased internal pressure...
    Quantity differances between "MIN" and "MAX";
    1.4 8v - 0.8 litres
    all others - 1 litre
    4. topping up the oil is simply a case of removing the oil filler cap (usually located on the top of the engine) and pouring in required amount, this may mean frequently checking dipstick to get the level correct. A funnel may be useful, the top of a 2 litre coke bottle suffices. If the oil level is increased over maximum you must drain some oil via the sump plug, but this will be covered later.
  Coolant level check;
  • IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE! When the engine is hot the coolant is also immensely hot and under pressure so allow the engine to cool before checking coolant, and remember antifreeze is poisonous... so don't drink it.
    1. locate the coolant header tank and remove cap,
    2. as the engine should be cold the level should line up to the "Kalt" marker on the header,
    3. top up the coolant as necessary using a 30% antifreeze 70% water for most of the UK but 50/50 mix for colder area's and harsh winters where the temperature can drop to less than -15 degrees C.
  Screenwash level check;
  • I treat this check as more of a regular top-up, simply remove the cap and pour in the washer fluid/water mix as stated on the washer fluid bottle.
  Brake fluid level check;
  • IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE! Brake fluid strips paint and can damage your eyes... don't rub it in your eyes or use it to bathe your eyes.
    1. the fluid level should be between the "MIN" and "MAX" level,
    2. if top up is required, clean around the top of the header and remove the cap,
    3. check for dirt in the fluid as this is cause for a complete fluid change,
    4. top up carefully with the correct fluid.
  Power steering fluid level check;
  • 1. Don't move the steering after stopping engine prior to check,
    2. remove the cap from the header and clean the dipstick attached to the inside, then refit the cap and remove again,
    3. the level when engine is cold should come to the lower marking,
    4. top up using the correct fluid.
  Electrical checks;
  • Simply checking all bulbs and fuses. Repeated bulb or fuse failures indicate deeper seated electrical issues. Check the battery clamps are tight and corrosion free.
  Wiper blades;
  • Check the condition of the blades for cracking or deterioration, or smearing of the screen. If wipers are perished they need to be renewed. Renew annually as a matter of course
  Tyre checks;
  • 1. tyres must be have at least 1.6mm of tread over 2/3 of the tyre width,
    2. wear on the tyre edge indicates under inflation,
    3. wear on the tyre center indicates over inflation,
    4. uneven wear indicates most commonly wheel misalignment.
    
    Pressures given for stock wheel sizes at cold;
    pre '93...
    1.4/1.6 - front 27psi, rear 24psi,
    2.0 8v - front 31.5psi, rear 28.5psi,
    2.0 16v - front 36psi, rear 33psi,
    post '93...
    1.6 - front 28.5psi, rear 26psi,
    1.8 - front 31.5psi, rear 28.5psi,
    2.0 - front 34psi, rear 31.5psi,
    2.5 - front 34psi, rear 32psi
    To note; the given pressures for the v6 are the setting I've used and enjoyed. The turbo is not covered yet.
    Increasing the pressures past these figures on the front of the car can increase the tendency towards understeer, whereas the rear tends toward oversteer.

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8,000 mile service or 6 months (9,000 miles or 12mth as per Haynes) service;
Later I will cover the key parts of the serving in greater depth, but to summarize...

• 1. Renew engine oil and filter,
  2. check all rubber hosing for fluid leaks (inc wheel arches for brake lines),
  3. check for excessive movement and wear in the steering and suspension...
  ...check play between the steering wheel and road wheels whilst on the ground then support the vehicle in the air and gently rock the wheel through 3 dimensions, expect some small movement but larger amounts indicates worn components, also check ball joints, gaiters and other rubber components for perishing and splits,
  4. check driveshaft rubber gaiters for perishing and splits,
  5. check automatic gearbox fluid if applicable,
  6. check radiator for blockages and clear as necessary,
  7. check carb for idle speed and mixture if applicable...
  ...this will be different for almost all carburetor types and will be covered at a later date,
  8. check throttle linkage well lubricated and moves freely but snaps back firmly,
  9. check exhaust rubber hangers for perishing, that exhaust system is free of excessive corrosion and does not blow,
  10. check ignition timing, on cavaliers using distributors, and adjust as necessary...
  ...as a tachometer and a timing light are required by all but the best of us I would suggest a friend who has experience or a local garage take this on,
  11. renew brake fluid,
  12. check brake pad wear,
  13. check handbrake linkage for play, movement and wear...
  ...I would suggest the handbrake should be capable of holding firm on a 30 degree incline after seven clicks,
  14. check power steering pump drive belt and/or alternator drive belt for wear or perishing if applicable,
  15. check bodywork for corrosion,
  16. lubricate locks and hinges,
  17. check headlamp alignment...
  roughly speaking point the car at a wall and put your lights on. The drivers side headlamp should be slighty lower than the passenger side. If in doubt have a garage check..

Lastly the road-test, this for me is largely a "feel" thing. Does the car "feel" right, any unusual sounds or knocks. Look out for and check;

• 1. all instruments function correctly,
  2. no vibration from the steering wheel either under braking, accelerating or maintaining speed,
  3. on gear change under acceleration there is no clutch-slip where the revs rise disproportionately to the acceleration (clutch issues generally wear),
  4. gear changes feel "tight",
  5. on full lock at slow speeds listen for a metallic clicking from the front (if heard this can mean worn driveshaft CV Joints and if so, will need renewing).

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15,000 mile service or 18 months (18,000 miles or 24mth as per Haynes) service;
In addition to the work done for the 8k service...

• 1. Renew engine coolant,
  2. renew air filter...
  ...however if using an aftermarket foam filter you can reuse after cleaning and reapplying solution supplied by the manufacturer...
  3. renew fuel filter,
  4. renew spark plugs...
  ...strictly speaking the DOHC and QOHC engines don't require the spark plugs be changed at this point, but they should be checked for colouring and any deposits and given a clean if not replaced...
  5. check clutch cable for rubbing, fraying and general condition...
  ...also check movement of pedal, you should have 134-141mm of movement any more or less indicates adjustment required in the engine bay. Disconnect the cable from the arm and turn the adjuster clockwise to increase pedal movement or anti-clockwise to reduce it...
  6. check brake shoes...
  ...on cavaliers fitted with rear discs, the shoes are located within the rear discs and operated by the handbrake...
  7. check manual gearbox fluid level,
  8. check automatic gearbox generally...
  ...that it functions perfectly with no snatching or jerking, that there are no leaks or damage to the casing and that the breather hose is clear and undamaged. Haynes also states an electrical test is required using specific Vauxhall tools...
  9. check carburetor air inlet temperature control operates correctly, i.e. moves to draw warm air when the engine is cold and returns to draw cold air as the engine warms.

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30,000 mile service or 36 months (36,000 miles or 48mth as per Haynes) service;
In addition to the work done for the 15k service...

• 1. Renew timing belt,
  2. renew spark plugs in the DOHC or QOHC if not done at 15,000 mile service,
  3. renew automatic gearbox fluid.

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Required items;

• 1. new oil, some good quality 10w40 for petrol engines or whatever dieseasels drink,
  2. correct oil filter,
  3. special oil filter removal tool... or a hammer and a screwdriver...
  4. ring-ended spanner, I think it varies from 17mm to 19mm dependant,
  5. oil container... you can buy these but an old washing bowl works well enough,
  6. some rags.

The used engine oil should be changed when the engine is warm...
IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE!
By warm I mean a 5 minute gentle warm up to get the oil moving around and viscous... not a 100 mile drive at a billion miles an hour. Oil changes tend to get messy and it is nearing impossible to avoid getting oil on you during working.
HOT OIL BURNS AND STICKS... it is recommended to wear some cheap latex gloves whilst doing this job, and don't drop the nut.

Firstly raise the car enough to allow the container under the sump, but remember the car needs to be as level as possible so don't jack it right up. Open the bonnet then loosen the sump nut slightly (located on the bottom of the engine on the sump), the idea at this point is to position the container under the sump nut so as you remove the nut the oil all flows into the container, and not, if your clumsy like me, all over the drive.
When you have accomplished this remove the oil filler cap and brew up... when your cuppa is finished go back outside and replace the sump nut.
Then, after repositioning the oil container, use the oil filter removal tool, or, hammer the screwdriver through the old oil filter, being careful not to damage anything else, to remove the old filter. The oil filter can be found on the front of the block.
Replace the filter after smearing the rubber seal with a little old oil (helps seal it) and nip it up to hand tight (6Nm).
Then refill the engine with the correct amount of new oil, I'd advise the use of a funnel... or the top of a coke bottle, then replace the filler cap.
Dispose of the used oil at your local tip.

Capacities;

• 1.4 8v - 3.0 litres
  1.6 8v - 3.5 litres
  1.8 8v - 4.0 litres
  2.0 8v - 4.0 litres
  20XEJ - 4.5 litres
  C20XE - 4.5 litres
  X20XEV - 4.0 litres
  2.5 24v - in the region of 5 litres

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Required items;

• 1. new dot4 brake fluid,
  2. gunson brake bleed kit, or other make... or a mate and a lot of patience,
  3. ring-ended spanner, I think it's 8mm,
  4. old 2 litre coke bottle.

IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE!
Brake fluid strips paint and will damage your eyes if you accidentally rub it in your eye, it is recommended to wear some cheap latex gloves whilst doing this job.

Firstly read the directions on the brake bleed kit, then follow them. Seriously, it's worth buying the kit if you only ever use it once. Just remember start with the front passenger brake then front driver then rear passenger and finally rear driver.
If your seriously not going to spend the few quid then bear in mind using the kit is recommended by Vauxhall themselves, still no...?
Well then, find a jar and some clear hose put an inch of brake fluid in the jar. Then you place one end of the hose over the bleed nipple on the brake caliper and place the other end in the jar, held below the level of the caliper.
Loosen off the nipple and have the friend slowly apply the brake, then tighten the nipple and have your soon-not-to-be-friend release the brake quickly. Repeat until fluid runs bubble free and clear... then do the other 3... your friend will hate you, buy the kit.

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Required items;

• 1. new coolant mix (see weekly checks to confirm mix details),
  2. a screwdriver,
  3. possibly a large set of grips,
  4. a bucket.

IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE!
As per the warning in the weekly checks, anti-freeze is poisonous and is not suitable as a warming drink.

This is an immensely easy job, with a few added extra little jobs.
Firstly wait for the engine to cool (this process can be done with the engine warm or hot, but then the coolant is also really hot so take care), then remove any undershielding and position the bucket (or other suitable container) under the lower radiator hose. It may be necessary to raise the car slighly but it's preferable to use a shallower container.
Once the bucket is in place, pop the bottom hose off the radiator and allow the coolant to drain into the bucket, then remove the header tank cap.
If the coolant renewal history is unsure or you suspect the antifreeze mix to be weak then it may be necessary to flush the system to restore the efficiency(I'd do this whenever you renew coolant anyway). Simply remove the thermostat and, with the radiator disconnected, using a continuous water supply (i.e. the garden hose) pour water into the radiator bottom hose until clean water emerges from the top hose. Then flush the radiator by inserting the hose into the radiator top inlet and run water through until water runs clear. If the water does run clear then see your local autofactors for a cleaning agent and follow the instructions.
Once the system is drained and cleaned, check water pipes and clips for corrosion and perishing, then reassemble and refill to "KALT" marker, slowly to prevent air pockets.

Capacities;

• 1.4 8v - 5.6 litres
  1.6 8v (except C16NZ2) - manual - 5.8 litres
  1.6 8v (except C16NZ2) - auto - 5.6 litres
  C16NZ2, 1.8 8v & 2.0 8v - manual - 7.2 litres
  C16NZ2, 1.8 8v & 2.0 8v - auto - 7.1 litres
  DOHC 16v engines - 7.2 litres
  2.5 24v - in the region of 7.25 litres

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Required items;

• 1. new air filter element (see footnote "If using foam filters..."),
  2. a cross head screwdriver (philips),
  3. clean rag.

Again a simple job, with no hiccups it should take 5 minutes.
Firstly depending on type remove the top piece from the airbox.
For the round type undo all clips and the 4 screws, lift off the cover (don't lose the seals), give the inside a wipe clean and replace the filter then reassemble.
For the square type undo the clips and the 2 screws securing the cover, lift the cover enough to replace the filter and wipe clean, making sure to locate the rubber edging correctly. Reassemble.

If using foam filters then follow the above procedure but clean the filter as opposed to replacing. Induction kits require the same. Clean using some manufacturer approved cleaner (I used a little white spirits and a toothbrush but as example only Halfords do a Pipercross Filter Cleaning Kit Cat code: 629154-0 for £12.99) allow to dry and re-apply the relevant solution, then refit when dried.

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Required items;

• 1. new fuel filter,
  2. screwdriver,
  3. mole-grips to clamp fuel lines,
  4. something to catch excess fuel,
  5. rags.

IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE!
Fuel is flammable, fuel vapour is very flammable. Be careful, and no lit matches or fags, please. It is recommended to wear some cheap latex gloves whilst doing this job.

Firstly determine where your filter is;

• 1. on carbed vehicles the filter is likely in the engine bay near the carburettor,
  2. on injection models using an in-tank pump the filter is located at the back of the tank on the right,
  3. on injection models using an external pump the filter is located next to the pump, under the rear of the vehicle.

Carburettor models;
Open the bonnet, remove anything on top of the carb. Then locate the fuel line feeding the carb, clamp it and separate it. Inside the union there should be a gauze filter, fish it out, check it for tears, clean it with compressed air or fuel and a toothbrush. Replace if torn, or reassemble when cleaned.
In-tank Pump models;
Remove the fuel pump fuse, start the car and allow it to idle until it dies. Turn it over a few times to be sure the fuel line is de-pressurised. Locate the filter and clamp fuel lines either side, loosen clips and slide them back. Place container under the filter before removal, to catch excess fuel. Remove filter and replace, remember to replace the fuse. It's worth noting that this can, when running higher rated FPR's, lead to fuel leaks if not done absolutely right using (if replaced) the exact sized clips. I personally chased a fuel leak up the line after replacing mine (and some other sections of the fuel system) with slightly larger replacement clips... of course this was after a drive that wasted a lot of fuel... Point of the story; start the car and let it idle for 5 minutes after completion then look under it and have a sniff, a fuel leak should be fairly obvious.
External Pump models;
Disconnect the battery, place container under filter to catch fuel spillage then clamp the fuel lines either side of the filter. Loosen clips on either side of filter and slide them back then disconnect the hoses catching spilt fuel in container, DO THIS SLOWLY AS THE FUEL MAY SPRAY. Loosen bracket securing the filter and replace. Reassemble referring to the little story about my fuel leak above...

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Required items;

• 1. Manual transmission fluid,
  2. fine funnel,
  3. Appropriate socket and ratchet.

IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE!
Gearbox fluid strips paint and will damage your eyes if you accidentally rub it in your eye, it is recommended to wear some cheap latex gloves whilst doing this job.

Firstly if your cavalier is post '94 then gearbox shouldn't need checking... but...
Ensure the car is parked on a level surface and unscrew the oil level plug (located towards the rear of the gearbox). The level should equal that of the bottom of the hole.
If top-up is needed then top-up via the filler, usually on the top of the selector cover, until oil begins to leak from the oil level orifice.