How2 - Replace internal fuel pump and relay switch.

[Cavalier342]

Ok guys. As suggested by Robsey and Gary, here is a step by step guide on the replacement of the internal fuel pump on the later models and the fuel pump relay. Thought it would be best to include the 2 in the same post as they are closely related. Due to the pic upload limit, i shall divide this guide into different sections, as Gary suggested. 3 small file-size pics per section I hope is ok. I've noted red arrows to points of interest in the pics to help clear things up.

Ok, starting off with the fuel pump itself then...
Tools used by me on both jobs... just basic bits..

A good bit of rag or an old t-shirt is definitely recommended here to deal with any fuel spillages.
A socket bar with an extension and an 8mm bit is highly recommended for both jobs. No other bits are needed, just the 8mm.
10mm ring spanner (battery)
A thin screwdriver/pryer/anything similar
A long thin rod/bar/screwdriver/anything similar.
A pair of grips. Not mole grips, something smaller.
Stanley knife/scissors/anything that cuts, should you use cable ties.
3x standard cable ties (optional if you can get the metal crimps to fit back on again.)
Can of WD-40 (optional)
Bit of tissue (optional)

Ok... First, disconnect the battery earth lead. This is a must when working on the fuel system. If the car has just been driven, depressurize the fuel system, ( open the filler cap to let pressure out, disconnect no.11 fuse for the pump, and wait approximately 15-20 mins for the system to depressurize itself. Note that this will not get rid of complete pressure, but is the starting step.
Next, open the rear offside passenger door and lift the seat bench up, and rest it against the back of the driver's seat, making sure it won't fall down. If it falls back down, recline the drivers seat forward and tuck the rear seat in until it stays there. Next, you will see a small flap under the rear seat. Open it, and flatten it out backwards. There will be a black round rubber plate. Get a thin pryer/screwdriver and pry it open using the little handle on it. You will now see this...

Disconnect the pump's electric plug by gently prying apart the 2 plastic tags. (red arrows) Once disconnected, tuck it in out of the way somewhere. It will probably try to come back again, so it is a bit fiddly. Could always use a bit of blue tack to stick it to somewhere.


Next, get the socket set and undo one of the bolts on the pump unit. Most of the pressure should have gone by now, but as you lift the bolt out, the last of it may escape with a slight hiss. You will be able to smell petrol at this point.

Now, the fuel hose that you see there, should have a metal crimp on it. Get that off by using grips to pry off the crimp and put it to one side. Gently but firmly, push the hose off from the pipe. A bit of fuel may leak out at this point, so have the rag on standby here. Latex gloves could be useful too if you don't want it getting on your hands.

[Cavalier342]

Now, the fuel hose that you see there, should have a metal crimp on it. Get that off by using grips to pry off the crimp and put it to one side. Gently but firmly, push the hose off from the pipe. A bit of fuel may leak out at this point, so have the rag on standby here. Latex gloves could be useful too if you don't want it getting on your hands.

With the hose disconnected, tuck it away to the side. Now undo the remaining bolts that hold the pump unit in place. With the bolts undone and put to one side neatly, remove the pump unit by pulling on the fuel pipe outlet and the electrical connector. At this point, you have to twist it slightly and pull until it comes loose. Worming it out, gently keep going until it's out and take care not to peel off the rubber sealing ring (red arrow)

The filter on the pump is also tricky due to its size, but you can easily move it about until it slips through. Let any petrol that is dripping from it, to drip until it stops and remove the unit.

[Cavalier342]

With the pump housing removed, place it onto the rag, wipe off any excess petrol and refit the black rubber plate back over the hole in the tank to prevent anything falling in there and fuel evaporating.

Now, the wires will be soldered on. Simply cut them off the pump connections and get the crimp off the fuel hose and remove the hose from the pump itself.(green arrow)

The last crimp is on the filter on the bottom of the pump. Again, get the crimp off, and twist and pull the filter off the pump. Don't throw the filter away yet.*


The pump itself can now be removed from the whole unit, by twisting it and pulling it from the rubber sleeve.**

NOTE:
*When i bought my new pump, the filter that came with it was a smaller round shape and did not seem to fit on the pump, so i re-used the old filter. Your new pump may have a slightly different kit, Either way, if the new filter goes on, use it. If not, re-use the old filter.
**Iin the last pic, where i'm removing the pump, the wires and hose are attached. That's because i already replaced the pump, and removed it again just for the How 2.

[Cavalier342]

Put the old pump to one side, and get the new one. It will have 2 plastic caps on either side, pull them off and discard them. Fit the new pump back into the rubber sleeve the right way round. Once it's in, refit the filter and cable tie/crimp it. On top of the pump, refit the rubber fuel hose and cable tie/crimp it.
NOTE: With my pump, they included 2 spade connectors for the wires. I didn't have a soldering kit on me, so i carefully stripped back the wires, placed them into the spade connectors (red wire in the big spade, blue wire in the small spade) (positive, negative) Then i attached the connectors to the pump. (red wire to wide connector, blue wire to narrow connector.) If you have a soldering kit, you may well want to use that. However this way works just as well if done properly.
Now.. With the wires connected, and the hose and the filter on, the whole unit is ready to be refitted in the tank. Pop open the rubber cover, and gently lower the pump housing inside the tank.
This picture shows a fuel hose inside the tank which may well be in the way, so get a long screwdriver or something similar, and while lowering the pump in, push the hose out to the side so it doesn't get in the way.

Refitting it it a fiddly job, if you look inside the tank, there will be a rectangular plastic "tub", that's where the pump has to sit inside. You have to guide it into there, taking care again not to move the sealing ring.

Eventually, when you get the pump housing to sit flat on the tank, refit one of the bolts. Make sure that the fuel pipe outlet faces the same way it came out. With 1 bolt securing it, fit another bolt on the opposite side and work from there until all the bolts are in. Don't over tighten them, otherwise they may shear especially if they're slightly rusty.
With the bolts in place, refit the fuel hose back onto the unit. Getting it back on may be tough because it will put up resistance, you have to push it back until it meets the pipe, and slide it on. Secure it with a cable tie and cut off the remaining bit. Once you've done that, refit the electric plug. It only fits on one way, but just in case, refer to the + and -

Finally, spray a bit of WD-40 on the electric plug and the bolts, and give the area a quick wipe over. Refit the rubber plate and the carpet flap and fold back the rear seat. Job done. Approximate work time - 1 hour for the first time, it is mostly fiddly stuff. Now, onto the relay switch.

[Cavalier342]

Assuming you do this at a different time to the fuel pump, i shall turn over a new leaf. If you happen to replace both at the same time, i'm basically just carrying on.
The fuel pump relay is located inside the driver's side kickpanel, next to the ECU.
Tools required:
Small screwdriver(flat-blade preferably)
Socket bar with extension shaft and 8mm bit.
Tissue/cloth (optional)
Ok, start off by sliding the driver's seat to the back to give yourself some room. It's advisable to put a mat on the floor next to the car to kneel on if you don't want sore knees after
Now, pull back the bottom sill panel. It just clips off and back on again, as long as you're not Schwarzenegger, it shouldn't break the clips.

Next, get a small screwdriver and pry out the little plastic plug on the kickpanel.

Now, just pull outwards the whole panel, taking care not to bend the bonnet release catch.

[Cavalier342]

With the kickpanel removed, get your socket bar and undo the first screw you see

Next, remove the wiring clips by sliding them downwards off the plastic rails.

With the clips removed, you will see another screw holding the bracket on. Undo that, and remove the whole bracket.

[Cavalier342]

With the bracket removed, on the back of it, that's where the relay is. Pull it off, it may be resistant, so pry it off gently with a thin screwdriver/anything similar, taking care not to bend the contacts.

Get the new relay and fit it back onto the connector, noting which way the contacts are. There are different options available, so even if the relay has different connectors, it should still fit providing it's the right one for the car.

With the relay fitted, place the bracket back onto the bodywork, aligning the screwholes.

[Cavalier342]

Refit the 2 screws which hold the bracket in place.

Next, refit the square wiring connectors back on by sliding them upwards onto the rails until they are secure.

Tuck in any loose wiring looms and make sure everything is connected.

[Cavalier342]

Refit the kickpanel back into its place, noting the bonnet release lever.

Maneuver the panel in, noting in the next pictures that the clip at the top fits into the oval hole in the bodywork, and the bottom clip also fits into a hole.

[Cavalier342]

Now get a thin screwdriver and push the weather seal over the kickpanel. Also, reattach the bottom sill panel by lining it up and giving it a good thump. You'll hear it click into place.

Finally, make sure the panel is in there secure, and attach the plastic plug back into the hole.

Job well done.
Final notes...
This was done on a C18NZ engine model, so the procedure may well vary on other models.
This is a fairly rough guide and the procedures shown are exactly the ones i did.
I have tried to explain everything as simple and clear as i possibly could. I really hope this helps some people should they attempt the tasks shown. I will post a link in the How2 Discussions section. Please feel free to comment on this. Many thanks and good luck.
Andrei