As mentioned above.
On the whole, unless you are really unlucky, it is very unlikely that you will damage the down pipe by removing the old lambda sensor.
If in doubt, you could always give a good spray of release agent such as plusgas around the sensor where it screws into the down pipe. Give the joint a good spray a good few hours before you plan to tackle the job to allow it time to soak in to the joint.
I have a C18NZ manifold fitted to my C20NE engine. That means the lambda sensor is in the exhaust manifold, not the down pipe.
The upshot is that the extremes of heat experienced on the manifold should make lambda removal more problematic, however I have been able to change the lambda a few times without any resultant damage to any parts.
Ideally you want the MIL lamp to illuminate for at least 3 or 4 seconds to log a fault.
Then do the paperclip test.
Short diagnostic plug pins A and B together.
Ignore code 1 -2, 1-2, 1-2 as that is just the start marker of the test procedure.
I am sure you know all this by now, but just making sure we cover the obvious stuff.
1995 2.0 16V Cav MIL and causes
Re: 1995 2.0 16V Cav MIL and causes
Well, the guy who will be doing it, a time served mechanic has his doubts, about it coming out without stripping the threads with it, hence why he said you had better get yourself a new front pipe as well as a new sensor if it is that sensor, he ain't convinced, (he doesn't have oxy/ actet, but does have an induction heater, but not sure if it would fit over the sensor or even work on that
- ilovedmymantas
- Registered user
- Posts: 1203
- Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2013 2:54 am
Re: 1995 2.0 16V Cav MIL and causes
this would be an ideal time to change for a free flowing 4-2-1 manifold/downpipe.
something like this
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Vauxhall ... 0290.m3507
wish I had
something like this
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Vauxhall ... 0290.m3507
wish I had
" It's not rust. It's age-related patina "
1980 vauxhall cavalier MK1 1.6L, 1982 opel manta berlinetta 1.8s, 1985 opel manta 2.0 gte, 1990 cavalier 2.0 gl ,1994 cavalier sri x20xev
-1995 cdx x20xev
---------------
Matt
1980 vauxhall cavalier MK1 1.6L, 1982 opel manta berlinetta 1.8s, 1985 opel manta 2.0 gte, 1990 cavalier 2.0 gl ,1994 cavalier sri x20xev
-1995 cdx x20xev
---------------
Matt
Re: 1995 2.0 16V Cav MIL and causes
Ok, got it on the Solus plus, scan tool, and it was giving a CAM sensor fault, & that is the only code listed, no crank sensor speed incorrect, this time, & my mate says that the cam sensor could be causing the run on, which only now seems to happen when the engine is warming up, but not at normal running temp, or when cold, He checked the operation of the O2 sensor whilst engine running, and said looks to be working fine, So i may chance a cam sensor from that place linked on here , if i can find it again, they where around £30 iirc
http://www.lmfvauxhall.co.uk/Camshaft-S ... cotec.html Cheaper than i thought but they are currently out of stock
http://www.lmfvauxhall.co.uk/Camshaft-S ... cotec.html Cheaper than i thought but they are currently out of stock
Re: 1995 2.0 16V Cav MIL and causes
Just a quick update , i replaced the Cam sensor , MIL light no longer illuminates on starting, I also replaced the ICV , and the breath pipe from the head to the air intake pipe just before the throttle body, Idles fine as in a consistent rpm , But still diesels when warming up and when hot, unless i rev upto 30k or so and switch off ,if it's idling it diesels , The other odd issue is idle speed increases whilst rolling , ie i can be stationary and allow the vehicle to roll forwards in 1st gear no gas and as it rolls to speed the idle increases from the 700rpm upto around 11 1200rmp, i can dip the clutrh and it will stay at that raised idle speed until the car stops moving again within a few seconds after it stops, I'm suspecting throttle body or TPS ?
-
- Registered user
- Posts: 1465
- Joined: Wed Jun 29, 2011 9:15 pm
- Location: Paisley, Scotland
Re: 1995 2.0 16V Cav MIL and causes
I've noticed that with mine as well, sometimes the revs were holding up at about 2000rpm when coasting to a set of lights then the instant you stop the revs drop to idle, the only thing that knows the car is moving, is the abs sensor I would think. Don't know how that translates into higher revs though?tom50 wrote:Just a quick update , i replaced the Cam sensor , MIL light no longer illuminates on starting, I also replaced the ICV , and the breath pipe from the head to the air intake pipe just before the throttle body, Idles fine as in a consistent rpm , But still diesels when warming up and when hot, unless i rev upto 30k or so and switch off ,if it's idling it diesels , The other odd issue is idle speed increases whilst rolling , ie i can be stationary and allow the vehicle to roll forwards in 1st gear no gas and as it rolls to speed the idle increases from the 700rpm upto around 11 1200rmp, i can dip the clutrh and it will stay at that raised idle speed until the car stops moving again within a few seconds after it stops, I'm suspecting throttle body or TPS ?