Car cuts out while driving

[T1BBST3R]

Hi guys,
On idle my car kind of keeps cutting out and then back in again and while driving it does it too. At junctions I have to keep my foot down to get enough revs to move, making me look like an idiot and while driving along have to keep my Foot down to stop slowing down too much up hills and the like. It started off a few months ago as a subtle problem but has no got pretty bad. Could it be a fuel filter problem? I have one left over from a service I did but couldn't find where to fit it?

[T1BBST3R]

Oh, and if it helps diagnose the problem a little better, I seem to get more power at 2.5k revs but the car won't go higher than 4.5k.
Weird or what?

[Robsey]

Hmm fuel starvation?

It is quite inexpensive to change the fuel filter, so well worth doing it to rule it out.

How about the exhaust?
I am sure James had issues similar to this with his V6.
His turned out to be a clogged catalytic converter.
You could unbolt the cat and see if that eases things.

[T1BBST3R]

Thanks, didn't think of that, I have a spare cat too.
Have had a look for vaccum leaks (car ticks over o.k most the time) and can't find any and put a new egr valve on and it has also had a new maf sensor in the last few months (cheap one off eBay).
Have also read some old posts saying to check the pump filter and voltage, was also wondering if there's any way to test the pump if it's taken out. Do you think I could just wire it straight to the battery out in the air and see if the buzz sounds constant?
Wish I knew more about cars really seeing as mines 24.

Thanks

[Robsey]

Fuel pump filter and voltage...

As said, the filter is a part that is often neglected.
My car has only had two filters in it's 270,000 mile, 24 year history.
The second filter was only fitted about 5 or 6 years ago.
It is easily located, bolted to the underside of the car close to the rear, right side of the fuel tank.

As for voltage...
You could indeed connect a 12 volt feed directly across the two pin connector for the pump.

Lift out (saloon) or flip-up (hatch) the rear seat to access a plastic cover panel.



Below you will see a two pin connector for the pump, plus two fuel hoses.
One for out towards the filter, and one for return from the throttle body.

The filter should buzz or hum when 12 volts is applied to the pump connector.

Removal of the pump is achieved by undoing the ring of screws around the pump flange.

Take care not to disturb or damage the gasket / seal when refitting the pump to the tank.

There are only a few reasons for loss of voltage.
1 - tired / weak fuel pump relay.



2 - dirty or corroded pump electrical connector terminals.
3 - dirty or corroded fuel pump relay connector terminals.
4 - dirty fuse in fuse box position 11.
5 - ongoing immobiliser issues.
(You could short pins 1 and 18 of the yellow immobiliser connector in the left inner wing next to the glove box).

[T1BBST3R]

Well, changed the fuel filter, didn't take the Pump out but got somebody to listen to it while the engine was cutting out but it was still giving a constant tone. The old fuel filter was fine. Wiring to pump was 12.4v.

Car seems worse for some reason now. Ticks over mostly ok, still splutters a bit and it very hesitantly takes full throttle to slowly climb up to 2.5k revs which if you want to go anywhere with you have to wheel spin off from a stop where it mostly still cuts and jibs out.
Could I have a blocked fuel line or valve or something? Need a lift to work tomorrow.

[James McGrath]

If you aren't getting any fault codes, I'd definitely take the catalytic converter off and inspect it.
Like Robsey said, I had similar symptoms on my V6 and it turned out to be completely stuffed up.

[T1BBST3R]

Is in the garage now, the mechanic thinks it's sucked a bit of shit in from the petrol tank or it could be the throttle position sensor or something. When I ring to check up on it tomorrow, will ask to get the cat in the boot fitted.
All I know is it's a good job I'm not going on holiday at the end of January now because I would no longer have the cash.

[Robsey]

It will be interesting to see what they find.

[T1BBST3R]

Looked up the symptoms of cam sensor fault on the web yesterday and so think it could even be that.

[Robsey]

Searching on the web for symptoms can be useful, but remember info is only as good as the person who put it there.

Also many symptoms can have multiple causes.

It is easy to get sucked into a cycle of swapping parts blindly until you either come to a dead end, or you have half bankrupted yourself until a fix is achieved.

Cam sensor eh? -
I usually recommend starting with, basic wiring checks first, then cheaper parts and finally the more expensive parts later.

As the garage have your car, I assume they could test the cam sensor output with an oscilloscope.

[James McGrath]

Also remember that if there is a major problem with one of the engine management components then a fault code should be registered.
If you have a major problem and your not getting any engine lights then look at components that aren't controled by the engine management system first.

[ilovedmymantas]

I've been looking at your post from last year for background and noticed that although your main fault was a badly wired cam sensor there was no eml.

Earlier this year I had a similar ( intermittent ) cam sensor wiring problem.
When the eml was on the car ran like crap - painfully slow to pull-away even at higher revs and limited to around 4000. ( I can't remember the exact figure but this is 'limp home' mode )
Silly question time - does the eml bulb work ?

I think, like last time, it may be a couple of things causing confusion

You may be right about the cam sensor. I'm assuming, because It was wired wrong, that it had already been changed for the modified version?
If so It shouldn't need another so soon. The one I replaced on my last xev was good for 7 years before I sold It.
I'm inclined to think there is also a fuelling problem.

Hi guys,
On idle my car kind of keeps cutting out and then back in again and while driving it does it too. At junctions I have to keep my foot down to get enough revs to move, making me look like an idiot and while driving along have to keep my Foot down to stop slowing down too much up hills and the like. It started off a few months ago as a subtle problem but has no got pretty bad.

I've got the same car and the icv needs cleaned at least once a year.
There's no eml for this problem and it doesn't cause 'rev limiting'

The early symptoms for me were revs dipping to almost cut-out at lights , sometimes it was the engine dying just as I'd slowed down to turn across traffic . No power steering
I bought a second icv so I'd always have a clean one when idling problems start now.

I replaced my backbox a while ago, when removed the old one had bits falling out and sounded like it was full of gravel when shaken!
A new one improved running slightly.

Personally I'd look at the icv and cam sensor first then any older exhaust parts.

[T1BBST3R]

The EML bulb does work, it just doesn't light up when the car cuts out. Has a brand new icv, the garage said they were going to check the timing today (i'm assuming the cam sensor will get looked at too here if they have an oscilloscope thingy) as well as the exhaust, they said the 02 sensor might be giving a false reading which is letting too much unburnt fuel through and blocking up the cat.
Also said that parts are becoming hard to get so to have a think about buying spares or to get a different car.

Should get an update by 6 o'clock.

[T1BBST3R]

Got the car back finally.
Got a new distributor, plug leads and 02 sensor which has sorted it out. No more hesitation at getting above idle and having absolutely no power until 3k revs, then getting all at once.
In other news, why are maf sensors so expensive? The car runs fine when driving now but cuts out at idle still. Revs at around 600 to 200 rpm so think it could be that the cheap 15£ maf sensor i put on there could be giving the wrong reading at idle. Supprised the mechanic didnt sort this out but got the impression he didnt care he said, 'yes, could be the maf, good place to start from!' after I rang him up. Had a look around for the proper siemens sensor and this is how much they are; genuinepartsearch-£192! Got another one coming from ebay, 32£ but this time says it's the oem replacement for the siemens sensor. Hope it works. At least its a very long time before it would definatly need sorting for an mot.

[Robsey]

Youch...
It is a lot of money, but I have seen them for over £300 from a Spanish supplier.