Hi .
My car has autogas kit fitted since mid 00's
The car refuses to start when switched on petrol. According to her mood takes either one extended period of cranking or two or various attempts to get it started.
However when shes switched on gas it starts in no time .
I dont have any running problems but a terrible idling. First injector had broken wiring, I fixed that which eased my pain but while waiting on traffic lamps I have to give a little gas while shes ticking over otherwise I have annoying vibration inside.
By the way engine was overhauled 40000 miles ago and fuel pump was renewed due to this late start issue one years ago. Leads, coil, airflowmeter are in decent condition.fUel filter is being changed once a 24 months. Recently swapped ICV, AFM, LEADS, COIL from a well running carlton but no improvements. Any comment would be appreciated. I hate vibrator seats and rattling door pins etc you know
2.0 8v problematic idle + Fuel feed problem
2.0 8v problematic idle + Fuel feed problem
Cars I run
-Vectra GL 2.0 8v 93
-Vectra GT C20XE 93
-Calibra C20XE SE1 pack 93
-Vectra GL 2.0 8v 93
-Vectra GT C20XE 93
-Calibra C20XE SE1 pack 93
Re: 2.0 8v problematic idle + Fuel feed problem
If it is a C20NE or 20NE, then they are well known for idling at less than the usual 800 +/- 80 revs.
My C20NE did this a lot.
At the time, I wasn't aware that I had the wrong octane plug. It should be a yellow plug. Mine was black.
Changing to the yellow plug from the black one increases the base-line idling revs by 100 rpm.
Your symptoms point at possibly two separate causes -
If you are having to crank to build up fuel pressure, then I would question the fuel pressure regulator.
Buried under the injector rail behind the ICV (IAC).
Or contamination / blockage of the fuel lines... but I suspect that neither condition would affect the car only at idle.
They should cause more issues at higher rev ranges.
If yours is still very jittery, then it does sound like it could be a weak spark issue.
You have already sorted the injector wiring, so that is one weak spot less.
Plus I note you have done the plugs and leads, but no mention of rotor and distributor cap.
Have you looked at the ECU connector pins and the fuel injection relay in the driver's side kick panel.
Can I assume that the gas and petrol systems run completely independently of each other, or do they share sensors and / or ignition components.
Obviously, if any parts are "shared" and the gas set up works fine, then we should be able to rule those "shared" parts out of the check list.
My C20NE did this a lot.
At the time, I wasn't aware that I had the wrong octane plug. It should be a yellow plug. Mine was black.
Changing to the yellow plug from the black one increases the base-line idling revs by 100 rpm.
Your symptoms point at possibly two separate causes -
If you are having to crank to build up fuel pressure, then I would question the fuel pressure regulator.
Buried under the injector rail behind the ICV (IAC).
Or contamination / blockage of the fuel lines... but I suspect that neither condition would affect the car only at idle.
They should cause more issues at higher rev ranges.
If yours is still very jittery, then it does sound like it could be a weak spark issue.
You have already sorted the injector wiring, so that is one weak spot less.
Plus I note you have done the plugs and leads, but no mention of rotor and distributor cap.
Have you looked at the ECU connector pins and the fuel injection relay in the driver's side kick panel.
Can I assume that the gas and petrol systems run completely independently of each other, or do they share sensors and / or ignition components.
Obviously, if any parts are "shared" and the gas set up works fine, then we should be able to rule those "shared" parts out of the check list.