1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
It was a steep / huge learning exercise at the time, which was heavily discussed on Vectra-C.com as a follow-up to retro-fitting the same (at that time, top of the range) unit in place of a much lower spec base model system in the wife's Vectra-C.
Many years later, I still cannot tell you much about CAN data streams and how they are constructed.
I simply do not know.
The rest is basic electronic lego (building blocks).
I can handle simple / basic stuff.
In simple terms -
If you join a & b you get the bare basics.
If you add c you get another function.
And add d you get another function.
And that is it.
For a complete system that does everything, you would need a huge chunk of a donor vehicle's wiring and modules.
In short a Vectra-C in a Vectra-A (Cavalier mk3) body.
I have heard of similar done by VW Golf owners (fitting mk4 / 5 electronics) in a mk2 body.
Many years later, I still cannot tell you much about CAN data streams and how they are constructed.
I simply do not know.
The rest is basic electronic lego (building blocks).
I can handle simple / basic stuff.
In simple terms -
If you join a & b you get the bare basics.
If you add c you get another function.
And add d you get another function.
And that is it.
For a complete system that does everything, you would need a huge chunk of a donor vehicle's wiring and modules.
In short a Vectra-C in a Vectra-A (Cavalier mk3) body.
I have heard of similar done by VW Golf owners (fitting mk4 / 5 electronics) in a mk2 body.
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
All the add-ons that I have done are purely for convenience and safety.
My car is also my office, so not having to stop to read a map book or stop to answer the phone, seem to be sensible features that reduce driver distraction.
Sat nav, bluetooth, cruise control, powered sunroof and so on.
My car is also my office, so not having to stop to read a map book or stop to answer the phone, seem to be sensible features that reduce driver distraction.
Sat nav, bluetooth, cruise control, powered sunroof and so on.
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
A bit of car progress for a change.
After fitting a replacenent ICV, the car had worked well for a fortnight, then worse than ever.
Symptoms were cutting out on a hot idle.
It always fired up again and kept ticking over with gentle use of the noisy pedal.
So today, I had a bit of spare time after doing my morning visits.
So stripped off the ICV and removed all breather pipework from the throttle body.
As expected the ICV was filthy, and there was oil all over the breathers and inside the throttle body.
I gave them all a good spray with plus-gas type spray and wiped everything clean.
I then removed the injection loom earth wires from the back of the cam cover housing and cleaned up all the ring connectors.
Cleaned and refitted everything securely.
Quick flick of the ignition key, and the car started immediately and idled smoothly.
40 minutes in rush hour traffic (12 miles journey round the M60) and the car still behaved perfectly.
So fingers crossed that this will last more than two weeks.![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_e_biggrin.gif)
After fitting a replacenent ICV, the car had worked well for a fortnight, then worse than ever.
Symptoms were cutting out on a hot idle.
It always fired up again and kept ticking over with gentle use of the noisy pedal.
So today, I had a bit of spare time after doing my morning visits.
So stripped off the ICV and removed all breather pipework from the throttle body.
As expected the ICV was filthy, and there was oil all over the breathers and inside the throttle body.
I gave them all a good spray with plus-gas type spray and wiped everything clean.
I then removed the injection loom earth wires from the back of the cam cover housing and cleaned up all the ring connectors.
Cleaned and refitted everything securely.
Quick flick of the ignition key, and the car started immediately and idled smoothly.
40 minutes in rush hour traffic (12 miles journey round the M60) and the car still behaved perfectly.
So fingers crossed that this will last more than two weeks.
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_e_biggrin.gif)
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
I revisited the accessory live How 2 by Gaz and TurboDan.
I knew that Gaz's ignition switch was a later 1995 spec item, very similar as if not the same as those fitted to Vectra-B and late Calibras.
(And I presume Cavaliers fitted with immobilisers and transponder chips).
Mine is the earlier (upto 1994) ignition switch, and so could not be converted.![Sad :(](./images/smilies/icon_e_sad.gif)
I have a spare Vec-B switch, but the body and location lugs are completely different in profile.
I will need to grind some material off the switch and lugs to improve the fit.
I will see if I can test fit the switch tomorrow.
I have my steering cowling off at the minute to allow me to work on the instruments (add warning lights and cruise control emblem light filter),
And to tidy up the tired looking wiring.
And possibly add auto lights wiring behind the dash panel.
The dash may remain part stripped for some time as I plan to send my CD70, colour display and UHP4 bluetooth module away for pairing up.
A bit of deja vue with the incomplete dash look - ha ha.
When the Cd70 and stuff are back, I can then throw it all back together for the last time - hopefully.
I knew that Gaz's ignition switch was a later 1995 spec item, very similar as if not the same as those fitted to Vectra-B and late Calibras.
(And I presume Cavaliers fitted with immobilisers and transponder chips).
Mine is the earlier (upto 1994) ignition switch, and so could not be converted.
![Sad :(](./images/smilies/icon_e_sad.gif)
I have a spare Vec-B switch, but the body and location lugs are completely different in profile.
I will need to grind some material off the switch and lugs to improve the fit.
I will see if I can test fit the switch tomorrow.
I have my steering cowling off at the minute to allow me to work on the instruments (add warning lights and cruise control emblem light filter),
And to tidy up the tired looking wiring.
And possibly add auto lights wiring behind the dash panel.
The dash may remain part stripped for some time as I plan to send my CD70, colour display and UHP4 bluetooth module away for pairing up.
A bit of deja vue with the incomplete dash look - ha ha.
When the Cd70 and stuff are back, I can then throw it all back together for the last time - hopefully.
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Just to add - the wiring connectors in the Vectra-B ignition switch socket are completely different from the spade style connectors of my Cavalier socket.
So a lot more involved to do the conversion. All this just to add accessory live. Ha ha.
So a lot more involved to do the conversion. All this just to add accessory live. Ha ha.
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Test fitted the vectra-b switch.
Managed to get it to fit into the end of the lock barrel, and the key seems to turn the contacts correctly.
I finished fitting my instrument cluster.
This included tidying up all the looms at the back, and fit a tell tale for my proposed cruise control installation.
Whilst I was messing, I sorted a long term niggle. A loose light switch housing.
For some reason the side nearest the car door has been quite loose.
So I undid the retaining screws next to the clocks, pulled out the switch housing and wrapped two layers of sticky backed velcro wool around the edge of the aperture.
Hooked the housing around the velcro and hey presto - the light switch is rattle / wobble free.
I use velcro wool a lot..
I wrap it around brackets to prevent wires chafing or vibrating against them.
Also good for reducing panel against panel vibrations.
I even have it as a trim to tidy up the edges of my digi-dash.
Managed to get it to fit into the end of the lock barrel, and the key seems to turn the contacts correctly.
I finished fitting my instrument cluster.
This included tidying up all the looms at the back, and fit a tell tale for my proposed cruise control installation.
Whilst I was messing, I sorted a long term niggle. A loose light switch housing.
For some reason the side nearest the car door has been quite loose.
So I undid the retaining screws next to the clocks, pulled out the switch housing and wrapped two layers of sticky backed velcro wool around the edge of the aperture.
Hooked the housing around the velcro and hey presto - the light switch is rattle / wobble free.
I use velcro wool a lot..
I wrap it around brackets to prevent wires chafing or vibrating against them.
Also good for reducing panel against panel vibrations.
I even have it as a trim to tidy up the edges of my digi-dash.
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
I find whenever I do dash work the cables seem too short to pull the parts out very far!
Alan
Alan
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
The looms are usually clipped back out of the way.
So this does keep the cables quite taught.
It helps to re-route or unclip some of the looms for easier access.
So this does keep the cables quite taught.
It helps to re-route or unclip some of the looms for easier access.
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
After a lengthy wait for site maintenance, I have now been able to upload a gif to postimage.
Here is the digi dash spooling up with the cruise light on (wiring test)
![Image](https://s5.postimg.cc/rkpv3r6hj/Cruise_dash.gif)
The rest of my Digi Dash tell-tales.
![Image](https://s5.postimg.cc/dnbg5ta9j/20171221_005327.jpg)
Going Down Left Main Panel =
A - Oil Pressure.
B - Battery Voltage.
C - Engine Coolant Temperature.
D - Fuel Tank Contents.
Going across the left side.
1 - Engine fault warning
2 - Side and tail lights on
3 - Main beam lights on
4 - Left Turn Indication
![Image](https://s5.postimg.cc/mv3omiwrb/20171221_005149.jpg)
Right Main Panel -
A - Torque-Tick Rev Counter
Going across the right side
1 - Right Turn Indication.
2 - Brake Fluid Low level / Hand Brake applied warning.
3 - Anti-Lock Brake system fault warning.
4 - Supplemental Restraint System (Air bag) fault
Here is the digi dash spooling up with the cruise light on (wiring test)
![Image](https://s5.postimg.cc/rkpv3r6hj/Cruise_dash.gif)
The rest of my Digi Dash tell-tales.
![Image](https://s5.postimg.cc/dnbg5ta9j/20171221_005327.jpg)
Going Down Left Main Panel =
A - Oil Pressure.
B - Battery Voltage.
C - Engine Coolant Temperature.
D - Fuel Tank Contents.
Going across the left side.
1 - Engine fault warning
2 - Side and tail lights on
3 - Main beam lights on
4 - Left Turn Indication
![Image](https://s5.postimg.cc/mv3omiwrb/20171221_005149.jpg)
Right Main Panel -
A - Torque-Tick Rev Counter
Going across the right side
1 - Right Turn Indication.
2 - Brake Fluid Low level / Hand Brake applied warning.
3 - Anti-Lock Brake system fault warning.
4 - Supplemental Restraint System (Air bag) fault
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Here is the difference between the standard ignition switch
5 pins.
1 - "30" = permanent live.
2 - "P" = parking live - used to power side light when indicator is set to one direction with the key out.
3 - "50" = starter live
4 - "15" = ignition live
5 - "15a" = ignition live when not cranking. This pin is dead when "50" is live.
![Image](https://s5.postimg.cc/py5pfn0rb/20170323_182128.jpg)
And the 1995 / immobiliser transponder equipped ignition switch.
(Also used on Calibra and Vectra -B).
6 pin.
Pins 30, P, 50, 15 and 15a,
Plus accessory live "W".
![Image](https://s5.postimg.cc/yp7ocsdqv/20170926_091328.jpg)
And the switch end of the ignition barrel.
![Image](https://s5.postimg.cc/dgtzvcz9z/20170925_173959.jpg)
5 pins.
1 - "30" = permanent live.
2 - "P" = parking live - used to power side light when indicator is set to one direction with the key out.
3 - "50" = starter live
4 - "15" = ignition live
5 - "15a" = ignition live when not cranking. This pin is dead when "50" is live.
![Image](https://s5.postimg.cc/py5pfn0rb/20170323_182128.jpg)
And the 1995 / immobiliser transponder equipped ignition switch.
(Also used on Calibra and Vectra -B).
6 pin.
Pins 30, P, 50, 15 and 15a,
Plus accessory live "W".
![Image](https://s5.postimg.cc/yp7ocsdqv/20170926_091328.jpg)
And the switch end of the ignition barrel.
![Image](https://s5.postimg.cc/dgtzvcz9z/20170925_173959.jpg)
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Well here is my little loom adapter.
I was surprised to see the difference in wire gauge for the 15a terminals.
Cavalier 15a terminal = 6mm csa
Vectra-B 15a terminal = 0.75mm csa.
So to do a safe conversion, I pulled out the skinny 15a terminal from the vectra plug, and fitted a fat wire and terminal in it's place.
This terminal is for air-con, heater blower and rear window demister.
All high current devices.
All spade connectors sized and rated to match those in the Cavalier switch are soldered and crimped in place and then double heat-shrink sleeved.
At such high current ratings, I have no wish to take any chances.
![Image](https://s5.postimg.cc/yrsh2df9z/20171003_195938.jpg)
I was surprised to see the difference in wire gauge for the 15a terminals.
Cavalier 15a terminal = 6mm csa
Vectra-B 15a terminal = 0.75mm csa.
So to do a safe conversion, I pulled out the skinny 15a terminal from the vectra plug, and fitted a fat wire and terminal in it's place.
This terminal is for air-con, heater blower and rear window demister.
All high current devices.
All spade connectors sized and rated to match those in the Cavalier switch are soldered and crimped in place and then double heat-shrink sleeved.
At such high current ratings, I have no wish to take any chances.
![Image](https://s5.postimg.cc/yrsh2df9z/20171003_195938.jpg)
- James McGrath
- Club Admin
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- Joined: Tue Aug 11, 2009 11:35 am
- Location: East Sussex
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Very neat work there as always.
Love the gif of the digi dash by the way.![Thumb :thumb](./images/smilies/thumb.gif)
Love the gif of the digi dash by the way.
![Thumb :thumb](./images/smilies/thumb.gif)
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Thanks James.
It is a faff to convert the switch wiring without fitting a whole 1995 loom.
But this was the safest and neatest way to do that. Hopefully the spades will be a good secure fit into the Cavalier switch body.
I will then need to slightly tweak the wiring to the radio so that I can listen to some tunes without the ignition being on.
Just in accessory position (I).
As for the gif - A nice touch, shame the camera always pics up a glare on the rev counter.
It is a faff to convert the switch wiring without fitting a whole 1995 loom.
But this was the safest and neatest way to do that. Hopefully the spades will be a good secure fit into the Cavalier switch body.
I will then need to slightly tweak the wiring to the radio so that I can listen to some tunes without the ignition being on.
Just in accessory position (I).
As for the gif - A nice touch, shame the camera always pics up a glare on the rev counter.
- Lowrider Dave
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
All this electrickery! Tis voodoo! Superb work Robsey.
- Cavalier342
- Registered user
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- Joined: Tue Jul 22, 2008 10:46 pm
- Location: Dorset
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Very cool Rob.
Previous:
China Blue 1989 Vauxhall Cavalier L 18SV
Kings Blue 1992 Vauxhall Cavalier LSi Auto C18NZ
Smoke Grey 1994 Vauxhall Cavalier V6 C25XE
Am I a light sleeper or a heavy sleeper? Well that depends on how much I've had to drink...
China Blue 1989 Vauxhall Cavalier L 18SV
Kings Blue 1992 Vauxhall Cavalier LSi Auto C18NZ
Smoke Grey 1994 Vauxhall Cavalier V6 C25XE
Am I a light sleeper or a heavy sleeper? Well that depends on how much I've had to drink...
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Well - if anyone could find the wrong part to do a job it is me.
Did a test fitting of the Vectra-B ignition switch and connector.
Typical for me, I managed to find the only switch with a non-functioning "W" contact.
Stripping the switch apart, I came up with this.
![Image](https://s5.postimg.cc/5bp45n2nr/20171010_010639.jpg)
![Image](https://s5.postimg.cc/uuhgio1nb/20171010_011028.jpg)
The W contact at the 11 o'clock position in the first picture is not raised like the others, and so the little Y shaped finger cannot touch it - no touchy means no worky... poo!!
So a long look at the various ignition switch types - there are at least three and I realise that I need part number 90 389 377.
So I will look at either modifying my current switch unit, or
look at my other spare Vectra-B switch to see if that will work, or
wait and buy the correct part.
![Rolling Eyes :roll:](./images/smilies/icon_rolleyes.gif)
UPDATE -
I tried the spare switch, and that is identical internally apart from being in cleaner better condition.
Another project on hold until funds allow.
Did a test fitting of the Vectra-B ignition switch and connector.
Typical for me, I managed to find the only switch with a non-functioning "W" contact.
![Rolling Eyes :roll:](./images/smilies/icon_rolleyes.gif)
Stripping the switch apart, I came up with this.
![Image](https://s5.postimg.cc/5bp45n2nr/20171010_010639.jpg)
![Image](https://s5.postimg.cc/uuhgio1nb/20171010_011028.jpg)
The W contact at the 11 o'clock position in the first picture is not raised like the others, and so the little Y shaped finger cannot touch it - no touchy means no worky... poo!!
![wall :wall](./images/smilies/BangHead.gif)
So a long look at the various ignition switch types - there are at least three and I realise that I need part number 90 389 377.
So I will look at either modifying my current switch unit, or
look at my other spare Vectra-B switch to see if that will work, or
wait and buy the correct part.
![Rolling Eyes :roll:](./images/smilies/icon_rolleyes.gif)
UPDATE -
I tried the spare switch, and that is identical internally apart from being in cleaner better condition.
Another project on hold until funds allow.
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Not really WIP stuff, but came across an elderly couple stood in the middle of the road in front of my car whilst I was on home visits in south Manchester.
I got chatting with the chap, who was clearly in his 70s or 80s.
His first comment was about my headlamps. "They're not standard lights are they" he said.
"No they are German cheapo aftermarket headlamps by Depo - not as good as the Carello one's, but better light output than standard headlamps. In my opnion the weak spot of the Cavalier, although Osram Night Breakers make a huge difference", I replied.
"It is a long time since I last saw one of these - I used to be a Vauxhall mechanic", he went on.
He was clearly very pleased to see the old girl.
We discussed the Angel Eyes and Morrettes and other stuff. He was obviously still very much interested in cars and recent motoring innovations.
It is conversations like this that bring a huge grin to my face.
To see people get excited at seeing my car brings me a lot of happiness. It makes the thought of bankrupting myself on saving it from the scrapper more bearable - lol.
I got chatting with the chap, who was clearly in his 70s or 80s.
His first comment was about my headlamps. "They're not standard lights are they" he said.
"No they are German cheapo aftermarket headlamps by Depo - not as good as the Carello one's, but better light output than standard headlamps. In my opnion the weak spot of the Cavalier, although Osram Night Breakers make a huge difference", I replied.
"It is a long time since I last saw one of these - I used to be a Vauxhall mechanic", he went on.
He was clearly very pleased to see the old girl.
We discussed the Angel Eyes and Morrettes and other stuff. He was obviously still very much interested in cars and recent motoring innovations.
It is conversations like this that bring a huge grin to my face.
To see people get excited at seeing my car brings me a lot of happiness. It makes the thought of bankrupting myself on saving it from the scrapper more bearable - lol.
- ilovedmymantas
- Registered user
- Posts: 1202
- Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2013 2:54 am
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
I know that feelingRobsey wrote:To see people get excited at seeing my car brings me a lot of happiness. It makes the thought of bankrupting myself on saving it from the scrapper more bearable - lol.
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_e_smile.gif)
It's a nice when a total stranger approaches you to reminisce about /admire your car.
It does make it worthwhile.
Everything considered, It still works out far cheaper annually than leasing a similar- sized bland euro-box you can't alter.
I bought a used set of depo's in need of tlc ( dismantling). I still haven't fixed them because I'm quite happy with the Osram H4 Night Breaker bulbs for now. If it wasn't for them I'd probably have melted everything with double-power rally bulbs!Robsey wrote:".. they are German cheapo aftermarket headlamps by Depo - not as good as the Carello one's, but better light output than standard headlamps. In my opinion the weak spot of the Cavalier, although Osram Night Breakers make a huge difference"
Would I be right in assuming you're using night breakers in the depo's
![Scratch :scratch](./images/smilies/icon_scratch.gif)
" It's not rust. It's age-related patina "
1980 vauxhall cavalier MK1 1.6L, 1982 opel manta berlinetta 1.8s, 1985 opel manta 2.0 gte, 1990 cavalier 2.0 gl ,1994 cavalier sri x20xev
-1995 cdx x20xev
---------------
Matt
![Wink ;)](./images/smilies/icon_e_wink.gif)
1980 vauxhall cavalier MK1 1.6L, 1982 opel manta berlinetta 1.8s, 1985 opel manta 2.0 gte, 1990 cavalier 2.0 gl ,1994 cavalier sri x20xev
-1995 cdx x20xev
---------------
Matt
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Yep,
I am using Night Breakers in the dipped bulb locations.
Love the light output from them.
The difference from standard is phenominal.
I rarely use high beam, so kept them bulbs standard.
I am using Night Breakers in the dipped bulb locations.
Love the light output from them.
The difference from standard is phenominal.
I rarely use high beam, so kept them bulbs standard.
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Okay - so I am putting my hands up and admitting that I am totally baffled.
Yep me - I cannot work out how to get the accessory live to work using all the various types of ignition switch for the Cavalier, Calibra, Corsa, Astra, Vectra-B and so on.
They are all internally identical to the pictures above.
The "W" contact plate is set low in the body, and the "Y" shaped contact fingers are pushed up and further away from the "W" contact by the profile of the body.
So lord knows how TurboDan got Gaz's to work. Mystical powers or something - who knows.
I could make up a latching R-S circuit to use ignition live to enable a circuit via a relay... and then use the "P" live to kill the circuit.
But that sounds too faffy, and I really cannot be bothered to waste any more money on it. Afterall, I have managed fine for 22 years - ha ha.
Being a strange person, I have spoken / grumbled to the car, and it seems that it knows that it has got the better of me, and I have left the car more or less original, it seems to have stopped fighting me.
Strange but true. In the last few days, the clutch has seemed less heavy and the idle control valve appears to have settled.
The last clean lasted about a day and then the ICV played up for a few days...
At the moment, fingers crossed... things are sort of okay.
Yep me - I cannot work out how to get the accessory live to work using all the various types of ignition switch for the Cavalier, Calibra, Corsa, Astra, Vectra-B and so on.
They are all internally identical to the pictures above.
![Scratch :scratch](./images/smilies/icon_scratch.gif)
The "W" contact plate is set low in the body, and the "Y" shaped contact fingers are pushed up and further away from the "W" contact by the profile of the body.
So lord knows how TurboDan got Gaz's to work. Mystical powers or something - who knows.
I could make up a latching R-S circuit to use ignition live to enable a circuit via a relay... and then use the "P" live to kill the circuit.
But that sounds too faffy, and I really cannot be bothered to waste any more money on it. Afterall, I have managed fine for 22 years - ha ha.
Being a strange person, I have spoken / grumbled to the car, and it seems that it knows that it has got the better of me, and I have left the car more or less original, it seems to have stopped fighting me.
Strange but true. In the last few days, the clutch has seemed less heavy and the idle control valve appears to have settled.
The last clean lasted about a day and then the ICV played up for a few days...
At the moment, fingers crossed... things are sort of okay.
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Okay - my brain came late to the party as usual...
I sussed out the pin W milarkey.
It isn't the "Y" fingers that link the 30 and W contacts.
It is the ignition lock spindle that does this.
When you put the key in and turn the lock, the centre pin is pushed further into the switch body. You can see a silver pin that rests upon a ramped section on the lock assembly. As the lock turns, the silver pin is pushed up the ramp, thus pushing the centre pin to extend into the switch body.
This causes a switch contact between W and 30 to be closed together.
I may have a play later in the week to see if my original Cavalier lock pin extends far enough or not.
Don't really want to start swapping lock barrels and so on.
Here is the Vectra-B lock barrel that came with the switch...
It all makes sense now.
![Image](https://s5.postimg.cc/aiz6d78rb/20171022_154923.jpg)
(By the way - I tested the theory by pushing the pin up into the switch body, and hey presto, my test led flashed away merrily
Using a wooden rod also worked too).
I sussed out the pin W milarkey.
It isn't the "Y" fingers that link the 30 and W contacts.
It is the ignition lock spindle that does this.
When you put the key in and turn the lock, the centre pin is pushed further into the switch body. You can see a silver pin that rests upon a ramped section on the lock assembly. As the lock turns, the silver pin is pushed up the ramp, thus pushing the centre pin to extend into the switch body.
This causes a switch contact between W and 30 to be closed together.
I may have a play later in the week to see if my original Cavalier lock pin extends far enough or not.
Don't really want to start swapping lock barrels and so on.
Here is the Vectra-B lock barrel that came with the switch...
It all makes sense now.
![Image](https://s5.postimg.cc/aiz6d78rb/20171022_154923.jpg)
(By the way - I tested the theory by pushing the pin up into the switch body, and hey presto, my test led flashed away merrily
Using a wooden rod also worked too).
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Back to normal stuff again.
I was a bit fed up of my digital video camera wire hanging down from the passenger sun-visor pivot, so I decided to pull half my dash out to re-route all the cables and generally tidy stuff up.
So wiring to be tidied and re-routed were the camera power feed, handsfree bluetooth speaker wire and the gps aerial wire.
Historically the aerial wire had been stuffed into the glove box, but this now caused the glove box lid not to fully close and so the light stayed on - bugger!!
For weeks I had left the box light disconnected.
Anyway all wires tucked and taped up out of the way...glove box light refitted.
It all looks much tidier
![Image](https://s5.postimg.cc/izadsnzvr/20171101_133724.jpg)
![Image](https://s5.postimg.cc/4g38ra9br/20171101_133720.jpg)
However in the process, I have now given myself two new jobs.
Whilst putting everything back together, my heater hot / cold air control flap cable became detached from the heater control lever in the "hot" position.
And I had unplugged my cd changer link cable from the back of my radio.
But due to tightness of cables and space back there, I decided to say sod-it and left it un-done.
Both will be a glove box out job.
I am away for a week without the car, so thought stuff-it, I will do it when I get a few quiet days after I get back next weekend.
Don't know if it is me, but for some reason October to January is a patheticly busy time for me with events, trips and the like.
By February, I crave for the pace and activities to ease.
At least now my MOT and service aren't due until mid March.
They used to be due on 1st of December.
Nightmare.!!
So possibly as a round up for this year,
As time and energy will be in short supply..
Outstanding jobs are -
1 - Refit the instrument cluster trims and steering collumn cowling plastics.
2 - find a driver's side grey plastic sill cover - mine is fudged and keeps popping out of it's retaining holes.
3 - re-fit heater temperature control cable.
4 - re-fit the cd changer cable.
No Cost Optionals are :-
5 - fit SRi tail pipe - it is still in the boot.
6 - finish fitting cruise control
7 - still undecided on fitting Full CAN CD70 and colour display.
8 - finish wiring in 3rd brake light.
9 - finish ignition switch modification.
Options that require bank manager funding:-
10 - refurb Diplomat alloys and get new rubber.
11 - get a crack in the hatch sorted (weld and paint) where the skin has flexed and cracked near the wiper spindle.
![Image](https://s5.postimg.cc/f2x1wpp6v/20171019_140050.jpg)
12 - full fluid service and MOT in March.
13 - sort heavy clutch.
Pedal is very stiff when the engine is at full operating temperature.
Oh joy - enough to keep me busy
And so I don't end on 13.....
14 - full wash, wax, cut and polish (detailing) and valet.
The driver's side of the car still hasn't been cut and polished since it's respray in January.
I was a bit fed up of my digital video camera wire hanging down from the passenger sun-visor pivot, so I decided to pull half my dash out to re-route all the cables and generally tidy stuff up.
So wiring to be tidied and re-routed were the camera power feed, handsfree bluetooth speaker wire and the gps aerial wire.
Historically the aerial wire had been stuffed into the glove box, but this now caused the glove box lid not to fully close and so the light stayed on - bugger!!
For weeks I had left the box light disconnected.
Anyway all wires tucked and taped up out of the way...glove box light refitted.
It all looks much tidier
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_e_smile.gif)
![Image](https://s5.postimg.cc/izadsnzvr/20171101_133724.jpg)
![Image](https://s5.postimg.cc/4g38ra9br/20171101_133720.jpg)
However in the process, I have now given myself two new jobs.
Whilst putting everything back together, my heater hot / cold air control flap cable became detached from the heater control lever in the "hot" position.
And I had unplugged my cd changer link cable from the back of my radio.
But due to tightness of cables and space back there, I decided to say sod-it and left it un-done.
Both will be a glove box out job.
I am away for a week without the car, so thought stuff-it, I will do it when I get a few quiet days after I get back next weekend.
Don't know if it is me, but for some reason October to January is a patheticly busy time for me with events, trips and the like.
By February, I crave for the pace and activities to ease.
At least now my MOT and service aren't due until mid March.
They used to be due on 1st of December.
Nightmare.!!
So possibly as a round up for this year,
As time and energy will be in short supply..
Outstanding jobs are -
1 - Refit the instrument cluster trims and steering collumn cowling plastics.
2 - find a driver's side grey plastic sill cover - mine is fudged and keeps popping out of it's retaining holes.
3 - re-fit heater temperature control cable.
4 - re-fit the cd changer cable.
No Cost Optionals are :-
5 - fit SRi tail pipe - it is still in the boot.
6 - finish fitting cruise control
7 - still undecided on fitting Full CAN CD70 and colour display.
8 - finish wiring in 3rd brake light.
9 - finish ignition switch modification.
Options that require bank manager funding:-
10 - refurb Diplomat alloys and get new rubber.
11 - get a crack in the hatch sorted (weld and paint) where the skin has flexed and cracked near the wiper spindle.
![Image](https://s5.postimg.cc/f2x1wpp6v/20171019_140050.jpg)
12 - full fluid service and MOT in March.
13 - sort heavy clutch.
Pedal is very stiff when the engine is at full operating temperature.
Oh joy - enough to keep me busy
And so I don't end on 13.....
14 - full wash, wax, cut and polish (detailing) and valet.
The driver's side of the car still hasn't been cut and polished since it's respray in January.
- Lowrider Dave
- Club Admin
- Posts: 2993
- Joined: Wed Dec 22, 2010 10:00 am
- Location: Southampton
- Contact:
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Excellent work on sorting things and I do like a good 'to do' list! Good luck sir!
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Hmm 'to do' lists are great, if I can get enough motivation to actually do them.
I am a highly qualified lazy pig.
An expert in fact, at creating excuses to do nothing.
I am a highly qualified lazy pig.
An expert in fact, at creating excuses to do nothing.
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Okay two steps forward, one step back.
I took the glove box out again to access the back of the heater panel and the radio.
Plugged the cd changer connector in, so we have 6 cd's available to play in the boot. - tick!
![Image](https://s5.postimg.cc/60sse6p0n/20171114_130348.jpg)
Then it was time to check the temperature control bowden cable...
hmm strange, it is indeed connected to the actuator arm on the back of the heater panel.
So refitted the glove box and scrabbled around in the driver's footwell.
Sliding the heater control slider from side to side did not appear to make any movement at the footwell end.
Much head scratching.
So I un-taped the bowden cable sheath from it's location lug in the footwell. (The hook had snapped off from the cable years ago).
Strangely the whole sheath and inner cable now moved in response to the slider.
I can only assume that the sheath hook at the heater panel end has become detatched from the panel moulding.
All is not lost - I hooked the loop of the cable over the heat valve flap lever in the footwell, and I can now get a range of air flow temperatures into the cabin.
That will suit me to get through the winter.
I took the glove box out again to access the back of the heater panel and the radio.
Plugged the cd changer connector in, so we have 6 cd's available to play in the boot. - tick!
![Image](https://s5.postimg.cc/60sse6p0n/20171114_130348.jpg)
Then it was time to check the temperature control bowden cable...
hmm strange, it is indeed connected to the actuator arm on the back of the heater panel.
![Scratch :scratch](./images/smilies/icon_scratch.gif)
So refitted the glove box and scrabbled around in the driver's footwell.
Sliding the heater control slider from side to side did not appear to make any movement at the footwell end.
Much head scratching.
So I un-taped the bowden cable sheath from it's location lug in the footwell. (The hook had snapped off from the cable years ago).
Strangely the whole sheath and inner cable now moved in response to the slider.
I can only assume that the sheath hook at the heater panel end has become detatched from the panel moulding.
All is not lost - I hooked the loop of the cable over the heat valve flap lever in the footwell, and I can now get a range of air flow temperatures into the cabin.
That will suit me to get through the winter.