engine spluttering, ecu?

[Robsey]

I can only suggest an alternative ECU...

otherwise, you've got me scratching my own head.

So far you hav checked -

If all is wired up correctly
and all connections are clean and secure - including earth wires
and there are no fault lights on the dash...
both fuel and sparks at each cylinder
and no induction leaks...

is the exhaust okay - blocked / collapsed cat converter.

[btcctroy]

wats the 2 letters on the 1.6 and 1.8 ecu

i will look on auto data see how much different they are

[btcctroy]

few differences in the ignition system. 1.6 coil appears to be different. both use different map settings.
1.6 map-i primary 0.68 - 0.76 secondary 4500
1.8 map-h primary 0.3 - 0.6 secondary 7000 - 8400

[planetc]

is the exhaust okay - blocked / collapsed cat converter.

that's another good one that often gets missed

[daimo]

it has got 1.8 coil and amplifier
i think that somethink ecu related has changed since it working then swapping to 1.8 ecu etc because when changing back to 1.6 ecu etc that did work it now dosent
im baffled
i could do with a thorugh check or something?

[planetc]

http://www.ecutesting.com/contact_us.html

used them before, they are very good, and as a bonus they are near you

[Robsey]

Right, I have had a good wade through the ECU pinouts, and the differences between 1600 and 1800 Multec (CFi) systems.

Now then -
The C16NZ is a family I vehicle which does not use a crank angle sensor
This is the EFI-4T system

The C16NZ2 and C18NZ are considered to have "identical" set-ups, complete with crank angle sensor. These are family II vehicles, with the IEFI-6 system

So assuming that yours is indeed the NZ2, then it has to be either the ECU or a connection.

Here is the pin-out for the IEFI-6 set-up.

C16NZ2C18NZ ECUa.JPG (91.36 KiB) Viewed 1028 times

C16NZ2C18NZ ECUb.JPG (93.86 KiB) Viewed 1028 times

[Robsey]

Out of interest,

This is the C16NZ set up

C16NZ ECU PINOUTa.JPG (65.78 KiB) Viewed 1028 times

C16NZ ECU PINOUTb.JPG (102.21 KiB) Viewed 1028 times

[daimo]

both mine had crank sensors which i am about to check
thanks for the info as it confirms the 1.6 was a nz2

[Robsey]

It is not un-heard of for electrical radio interference with, or damage to the crank angle sensor wiring, due to the vulnerable location.
Bottom, offside front of the engine.

However, I would consider the original recommendation, which is to get a spare ECU (early spec), and try that.

Or, you may be able to get the C16NZ2 ECU reprogrammed via Tech 1 to the C18NZ parameters.

It is possible to read the program number from the ECU via Tech 1 or Op-Com.

Here is my ECU info from Op-Com (it is a non immobiliser ECU)

[daimo]

i will try a earlier ecu, what year or any advice on what to ask for?

[Robsey]

Well mine is a August 94 ECU without immobiliser.

so any C18NZ ECU from before october 2004 should suit.

You don't want a later one, because you would then need the matched key transponder chip aswell.

You would need to have a good look round your scrappy for probably K,L or earlier M (94 ) vehicles with the 1800 central injection engine.

[daimo]

ill ring round tomorrow
thanks

[planetc]

Anything R chassis or before, S chassis is '95, that's when transponder chips came in. So essentially as stated up to 94 model year, some of which may have been registered early '95

[daimo]

struggling to find one

[daimo]

since cav not started the outside tempreture reads 67 degrees dont know what you think but thats hotter than egypt

[Gaz]

outside temp has nothing to do with the ecu its a stand alone thing, sensor is under the edge of the bumper.

[Robsey]

since cav not started the outside tempreture reads 67 degrees dont know what you think but thats hotter than egypt

That is just your temp sensor going belly up...

about £6 to £11 depending where you buy it from...

Mine read 43 degrees last winter...

Sensor is on the underside of the front bumper, passenger side, approx 6" from the rear edge.

It is held in by three plastic prongs... squeeze the prongs, and push the sensor up into the bumper..

Unplug sensor from the wire, plug in new one, then re-thread the sensor prongs back through the hole... it is about 1/2" diameter..

Job done

[daimo]

it started
very flooded, i jumped it of our family scenic and turned over until eventurly started (quite a few minutes) and when did alot of exhaust fog. fixed a couple of breather pipes which improved a little but still a bit dodgy (driven it about 5 miles and its like its got a manual choke still on). i aquired a non immobiliser ecu but did not change anything.
still got to service it oil change and filter,cap and leads general check over but i have replaced water and antifreeze.
but least now it starts
thanks for all help and advice very much appreciated.

[planetc]

it started
very flooded, i jumped it of our family scenic and turned over until eventurly started (quite a few minutes) and when did alot of exhaust fog. fixed a couple of breather pipes which improved a little but still a bit dodgy (driven it about 5 miles and its like its got a manual choke still on). i aquired a non immobiliser ecu but did not change anything.
still got to service it oil change and filter,cap and leads general check over but i have replaced water and antifreeze.
but least now it starts
thanks for all help and advice very much appreciated.

getting somewhere at least, so back to my previous post, start checking things that will affect fuelling and timing, sounds like its flooding.

[Robsey]

Yey, Progress

Over fuelling, at idle...
MAP sensor or
Coolant temp sensor, or
a sticky / jammed Idle control valve or
Dirty air filter

[planetc]

Yey, Progress

Over fuelling, at idle...
MAP sensor or
Coolant temp sensor, or
a sticky / jammed Idle control valve or
Dirty air filter

and..
O2 sensor or...
air leak on exhaust or...
injector or...
fuel pressure regulator or even maybe...
reversed fuel lines?

[Robsey]

All these sensors would throw up an engine light

Do you have an engine light on for more than 30 seconds?

If so, you need to do the paper clip test...

If no engine light, then it has to be
Clogged air filter,
Air leak in induction or exhaust manifolds or vacuum pipes
Faulty / dirty weak plugs, rotor, dizzy cap, leads
(A non-sensor fault !!)

[planetc]

All these sensors would throw up an engine light

Common misconception, as long as a sensor is within a range that is considered normal then it will not throw up as a fault.
For example, I have seen rich running due to coolant temp sensors reading in minus figures in summer on more than one occasion. I have also seen flat spots and poor starting caused by O2 sensors reading odd but with no light. The system also takes 14 minutes running before it will register a fault on the signal circuit of the O2 sensor