1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
I am just awaiting some j nuts and u nuts to mount the front number plate.
The current screws are quite a large gauge.
I want to fit a surround with the plates, so this would be tidier with new self tapping screws and j nuts.
All will be revealed in due course.
I have just over a week to fit the new plates, give the car a good service, and finish fitting the interior.
As said above... there is a lot of interior, as the whole car was stripped out except the main dash panel, sun roof, sun blinds, interior mirror and headlining.
And because I am a little bit OCD, I will have to fix that duff front fog light.
It isn't testable as the glass is intact, but I want it all working.
The current screws are quite a large gauge.
I want to fit a surround with the plates, so this would be tidier with new self tapping screws and j nuts.
All will be revealed in due course.
I have just over a week to fit the new plates, give the car a good service, and finish fitting the interior.
As said above... there is a lot of interior, as the whole car was stripped out except the main dash panel, sun roof, sun blinds, interior mirror and headlining.
And because I am a little bit OCD, I will have to fix that duff front fog light.
It isn't testable as the glass is intact, but I want it all working.
- ilovedmymantas
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Car's looking good. Your (sometimes stretched ) patience seems to have finally paid off
With a bit of berry blast on all the black and your new number plate, I reckon she'll look amazing
I've done the same myself even if we do only average 8 days a year of fog ! I must admit I've never had to use them in the time I've owned this car but It's nice to know they're working when you need them.Robsey wrote:And because I am a little bit OCD, I will have to fix that duff front fog light.
With a bit of berry blast on all the black and your new number plate, I reckon she'll look amazing
" It's not rust. It's age-related patina "
1980 vauxhall cavalier MK1 1.6L, 1982 opel manta berlinetta 1.8s, 1985 opel manta 2.0 gte, 1990 cavalier 2.0 gl ,1994 cavalier sri x20xev
-1995 cdx x20xev
---------------
Matt
1980 vauxhall cavalier MK1 1.6L, 1982 opel manta berlinetta 1.8s, 1985 opel manta 2.0 gte, 1990 cavalier 2.0 gl ,1994 cavalier sri x20xev
-1995 cdx x20xev
---------------
Matt
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Spent a couple of hours today on the old jalopy.
I think that all the MOT failure bits are now sorted, and so it was just a matter of doing the interior fitting.
So what did I do today?
1 - fitted replacement number plates.
Front and rear. Looks a whole lot tidier.
2 - taped down any loose cables and clipped back all cable runs in the footwells and along the sills
3 - clipped my corner tweaters back into place on the dash and tidied the wiring behind the a pillar trims.
4 - refitted the padding at the back of the front wheel arches. (One had previously been fitted - but was on the wrong side).
Put anti vibration sheets down in the footwells and then the thick foam padding over the top.
]
Images care of Postimage.
I think that all the MOT failure bits are now sorted, and so it was just a matter of doing the interior fitting.
So what did I do today?
1 - fitted replacement number plates.
Front and rear. Looks a whole lot tidier.
2 - taped down any loose cables and clipped back all cable runs in the footwells and along the sills
3 - clipped my corner tweaters back into place on the dash and tidied the wiring behind the a pillar trims.
4 - refitted the padding at the back of the front wheel arches. (One had previously been fitted - but was on the wrong side).
Put anti vibration sheets down in the footwells and then the thick foam padding over the top.
]
Images care of Postimage.
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
I also dug out all my seatbelts...
Took a bit of head scratching to suss out how it all went in there.
Not fitted the belts yet, as I still need to find most of the bolts.
I then fitted the sound deadening panel under the bonnet.
It is looking a bit tired and saggy - even with all 22 clips fitted securely.
But despite the look - It is a whole lot quieter in my opinion with it fitted.
Sounds like a car now rather than a scud missile.
Took a bit of head scratching to suss out how it all went in there.
Not fitted the belts yet, as I still need to find most of the bolts.
I then fitted the sound deadening panel under the bonnet.
It is looking a bit tired and saggy - even with all 22 clips fitted securely.
But despite the look - It is a whole lot quieter in my opinion with it fitted.
Sounds like a car now rather than a scud missile.
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Done a bit more today...
Put the anti-vibration matting into the rear footwells. And then fitted both halves of the carpet.
Repaired the plastic sheeting over 3 of my doors. They had been pretty well butchered by the paintshop lad when stripping for painting.
Apologies for the filthy door card.
2 years of workshop filth... but these are a temporary fit - I have some better cards to fit in due course.
Had a few niggles aswell.
The engine suddenly started revving like crazy at 3000 rpm despite being fully warmed up.
I trimmed the carpet and underlay to ensure the pedal was not restricted from returning to it's rest position.
Also checked the throttle body, and made sure that the cable etc was able to move freely.
After shunting the car about the carpark, it appeared to settle again.
I think it may have been dirty fuel being dragged through again, as the fuel gauge was showing empty again.
So I took the car to the local petrol station and put in 15 quids worth of clean fresh juice.
On the way back, the indicator stalk started faffing about... without any explanation, I kept seeing the high beam tell-tale lighting up.
On closer inspection it was found that one of the stalk connectors had moved and was shorting on another pin within the stalk switch body.
Fitted one of my many spares and full service was resumed.
Now then - just for personal satisfaction, I fitted Lord McGrath's SC303 radio.
Amazingly, after putting the code in, the car was filled with beautiful music....
Hmm - nice.
It was amazing, because everything has refused to work first time so far.
Also discovered two things.
The obvious one, was that I realised that my rear wiper parks in the vertical position.
It had been fitted in the horizontal position - so operation of the rear wiper sent out a racket as the arm bounced across the rear of the hatch lip.
The arm was refitted in the correct position.
And a less obvious observation was that my car has a big yellow connector for a factory fit alarm.
My connector has a cap on it.
Within the cap is a bridging piece that shorts two pins. (I won't advise on a public page, which two pins are shorted together).
With the cap removed, the car will not start.
Put the anti-vibration matting into the rear footwells. And then fitted both halves of the carpet.
Repaired the plastic sheeting over 3 of my doors. They had been pretty well butchered by the paintshop lad when stripping for painting.
Apologies for the filthy door card.
2 years of workshop filth... but these are a temporary fit - I have some better cards to fit in due course.
Had a few niggles aswell.
The engine suddenly started revving like crazy at 3000 rpm despite being fully warmed up.
I trimmed the carpet and underlay to ensure the pedal was not restricted from returning to it's rest position.
Also checked the throttle body, and made sure that the cable etc was able to move freely.
After shunting the car about the carpark, it appeared to settle again.
I think it may have been dirty fuel being dragged through again, as the fuel gauge was showing empty again.
So I took the car to the local petrol station and put in 15 quids worth of clean fresh juice.
On the way back, the indicator stalk started faffing about... without any explanation, I kept seeing the high beam tell-tale lighting up.
On closer inspection it was found that one of the stalk connectors had moved and was shorting on another pin within the stalk switch body.
Fitted one of my many spares and full service was resumed.
Now then - just for personal satisfaction, I fitted Lord McGrath's SC303 radio.
Amazingly, after putting the code in, the car was filled with beautiful music....
Hmm - nice.
It was amazing, because everything has refused to work first time so far.
Also discovered two things.
The obvious one, was that I realised that my rear wiper parks in the vertical position.
It had been fitted in the horizontal position - so operation of the rear wiper sent out a racket as the arm bounced across the rear of the hatch lip.
The arm was refitted in the correct position.
And a less obvious observation was that my car has a big yellow connector for a factory fit alarm.
My connector has a cap on it.
Within the cap is a bridging piece that shorts two pins. (I won't advise on a public page, which two pins are shorted together).
With the cap removed, the car will not start.
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Jolly good work there Rob. Coming together nicely.
Glad to hear the radio worked without any issues.
Glad to hear the radio worked without any issues.
Bet that looked funny. No harm done I hope.Robsey wrote:It had been fitted in the horizontal position - so operation of the rear wiper sent out a racket as the arm bounced across the rear of the hatch lip.
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
It looked fine in the horizontal position...
See rear number plate picture above.
Thankfully no damaged caused...
Yes the radio worked great...
electrical aerial was a bit stiff, but will hopefully free up with regular use and a bit of 3 in 1 oil.
See rear number plate picture above.
Thankfully no damaged caused...
Yes the radio worked great...
electrical aerial was a bit stiff, but will hopefully free up with regular use and a bit of 3 in 1 oil.
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Electric aerials can be tricky.
Best to avoid oil in my experience. It's fine for a while but It tends to clot up, turn black and actually prevent the aerial from moving feely.
Try giving it a clean first.
When it's fully extended spray some wd40 all over it, turn the radio off an on and then clean it off with kitchen town or a rag, removing any old oil.
Repeat this until as much of the old oil is removed as possible.
Also check to see if the aerial is completely round. Use a pair of callipers or even mole grips to check the diameter of the mast is consistent all the way around.
The aerial on my V6 was getting stuck all the time. Turned out the mast itself was slightly squashed at the bottom and not completely cylindrical. This meant it got stuck half way down.
Just used a pair of mole grips to squeeze it back into shape and now it's fine, hasn't got stuck since.
Best to avoid oil in my experience. It's fine for a while but It tends to clot up, turn black and actually prevent the aerial from moving feely.
Try giving it a clean first.
When it's fully extended spray some wd40 all over it, turn the radio off an on and then clean it off with kitchen town or a rag, removing any old oil.
Repeat this until as much of the old oil is removed as possible.
Also check to see if the aerial is completely round. Use a pair of callipers or even mole grips to check the diameter of the mast is consistent all the way around.
The aerial on my V6 was getting stuck all the time. Turned out the mast itself was slightly squashed at the bottom and not completely cylindrical. This meant it got stuck half way down.
Just used a pair of mole grips to squeeze it back into shape and now it's fine, hasn't got stuck since.
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Okay still have the emissions to sort.
Car is running quite rich with CO at 1.2%.
Max permissible is 0.3.
I am guessing it is the ECU coolant temperature sensor. A very common weak spot on Vauxhalls.
At 12 quid for a new original one, it seems the cheapest thing to check by a process of replacement.
There is no MIL / Engine light on the dash, so I am presuming the Lambda sensor is okay.
On the down side, the catalytic converter is the original 22 year old part, so may be long overdue for replacement.
I have a few duck ponds forming in the car boot area where there have been grommets missed out during the reassembly process.
Also the rear wiper has not been fitted securely allowing the bushes / seals to let water in.
All little teething problems from a major rebuild.
Car is running quite rich with CO at 1.2%.
Max permissible is 0.3.
I am guessing it is the ECU coolant temperature sensor. A very common weak spot on Vauxhalls.
At 12 quid for a new original one, it seems the cheapest thing to check by a process of replacement.
There is no MIL / Engine light on the dash, so I am presuming the Lambda sensor is okay.
On the down side, the catalytic converter is the original 22 year old part, so may be long overdue for replacement.
I have a few duck ponds forming in the car boot area where there have been grommets missed out during the reassembly process.
Also the rear wiper has not been fitted securely allowing the bushes / seals to let water in.
All little teething problems from a major rebuild.
- ilovedmymantas
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Looking good, the new number plates make a helluva difference!
After the major treatment your car's gone through it must be a relief that you're so quickly at the "minor mechanical niggles" stage.
Looking forward to seeing the finished product
After the major treatment your car's gone through it must be a relief that you're so quickly at the "minor mechanical niggles" stage.
Looking forward to seeing the finished product
" It's not rust. It's age-related patina "
1980 vauxhall cavalier MK1 1.6L, 1982 opel manta berlinetta 1.8s, 1985 opel manta 2.0 gte, 1990 cavalier 2.0 gl ,1994 cavalier sri x20xev
-1995 cdx x20xev
---------------
Matt
1980 vauxhall cavalier MK1 1.6L, 1982 opel manta berlinetta 1.8s, 1985 opel manta 2.0 gte, 1990 cavalier 2.0 gl ,1994 cavalier sri x20xev
-1995 cdx x20xev
---------------
Matt
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Minor niggles....
Ha ha, yeah.
After running a Vectra-C for two years without anything more than to top up the window wash fluid, it sort of brings you back crashing down to earth when you are reminded just how needy Cavaliers can be for daily intervention.
Everything is a bit gummed up or in need of a little tlc.
Even the clutch pedal is very stiff to operate.
Interior wise, there is still plenty to do in the cabin, including the glove box, heater panel, ashtray and cig lighter, centre console front and rear sections....
Passenger front seat and belt, rear bench seat and belts, all the plastic sill and footwell kick panel covers.
And then we can start on the rear hatch.
First job will be to fit new struts, so that it will hold itself open, rather than wanting to bite me in half...
Update *** The struts were waiting on my desk when I arrived at work today.. yayy
Also got a couple of bags of stainless steel self-tapping screws for assembly of the dash and trims.
I got two sizes... No 10 x16mm (4.8mm x 16) for the baggy J nuts.
And No 8 x 16 (4.2 x 16) for the nice tight J nuts.
More than enough here for about 5 cars.
But being stainless, they will be hard pushed to rust
Further Update *** Struts are fitted
But not before I lost my grip on the hatch and it slid down the back of my forearm taking a nice strip of skin off with it.
Ha ha, yeah.
After running a Vectra-C for two years without anything more than to top up the window wash fluid, it sort of brings you back crashing down to earth when you are reminded just how needy Cavaliers can be for daily intervention.
Everything is a bit gummed up or in need of a little tlc.
Even the clutch pedal is very stiff to operate.
Interior wise, there is still plenty to do in the cabin, including the glove box, heater panel, ashtray and cig lighter, centre console front and rear sections....
Passenger front seat and belt, rear bench seat and belts, all the plastic sill and footwell kick panel covers.
And then we can start on the rear hatch.
First job will be to fit new struts, so that it will hold itself open, rather than wanting to bite me in half...
Update *** The struts were waiting on my desk when I arrived at work today.. yayy
Also got a couple of bags of stainless steel self-tapping screws for assembly of the dash and trims.
I got two sizes... No 10 x16mm (4.8mm x 16) for the baggy J nuts.
And No 8 x 16 (4.2 x 16) for the nice tight J nuts.
More than enough here for about 5 cars.
But being stainless, they will be hard pushed to rust
Further Update *** Struts are fitted
But not before I lost my grip on the hatch and it slid down the back of my forearm taking a nice strip of skin off with it.
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Oh dear Robsey you think the cavy would be nice to you after all the work put into it, but we know how they like to repay us when we fix them don't we?
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
More toys arrived this week.
Bought a new engine management coolant temperature sensor.
Hopefully fit it on Sunday, otherwise mid-week next week when I am on leave.
I plan to do a before and after on my Gunson Digital Gas Anilyser.
CO%, HC ppm etc
And then repeat after the temp sensor is fitted.
If the CTS works to bring down the emissions readings, I shall throw the old girl back in for yet another MOT.
Then I have my other electrics to fit before rebuilding all the plastic trims on the dash and boot space.
For the boot I have a "3rd brake light" for low down in the rear window.
And for the front, I have a Valeo auto-light control unit.
Strange in so far as it "injects" a fused voltage supply on the switched side of the light switch dipped and side / tail light switch contacts.
Beyond that - we shall see what I can get done in due course...
Bought a new engine management coolant temperature sensor.
Hopefully fit it on Sunday, otherwise mid-week next week when I am on leave.
I plan to do a before and after on my Gunson Digital Gas Anilyser.
CO%, HC ppm etc
And then repeat after the temp sensor is fitted.
If the CTS works to bring down the emissions readings, I shall throw the old girl back in for yet another MOT.
Then I have my other electrics to fit before rebuilding all the plastic trims on the dash and boot space.
For the boot I have a "3rd brake light" for low down in the rear window.
And for the front, I have a Valeo auto-light control unit.
Strange in so far as it "injects" a fused voltage supply on the switched side of the light switch dipped and side / tail light switch contacts.
Beyond that - we shall see what I can get done in due course...
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Fitted some more of the interior today.
Spent a few hours installing seat belts, door cards and plastic hatch trims.
I tried to fit a new passenger door exterior handle. However it would not fit. It was far too big.
So I plastered plenty of coppa-slip onto the pivot lever of the original door handle and worked it in. The handle now works perfectly.
Also noticed that the inner door glass seals on both front doors were fitted wrong.
I swapped them over and all is good again.
One thing that has been bugging me for years, is that the wedged seals for the rear wiper spindle were all mis-aligned and allowing rain in.
15 minutes fitting new wedges and all is good and tidy again... and rain proof.
Spent a few hours installing seat belts, door cards and plastic hatch trims.
I tried to fit a new passenger door exterior handle. However it would not fit. It was far too big.
So I plastered plenty of coppa-slip onto the pivot lever of the original door handle and worked it in. The handle now works perfectly.
Also noticed that the inner door glass seals on both front doors were fitted wrong.
I swapped them over and all is good again.
One thing that has been bugging me for years, is that the wedged seals for the rear wiper spindle were all mis-aligned and allowing rain in.
15 minutes fitting new wedges and all is good and tidy again... and rain proof.
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Something I've thought about fitting something similar, but not sure on the wiring.Robsey wrote:For the boot I have a "3rd brake light" for low down in the rear window.
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
It depends if you have check control as to how you do it.
If you have check control, you need a relay.
If you don't then you can wire directly in parallel to one of your other brake lights.
If you have check control, you need a relay.
If you don't then you can wire directly in parallel to one of your other brake lights.
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
At the moment, I am just getting the car back together to a point that it looks and feels ready for an MOT.
I will review any upgrade options or changes later.
So finally got most of the dash reassembled.
Glove box in, cigarette lighter and ashtray, and a cut down heater panel.
I know I have one somewhere, but cannot quite locate my complete panel.
Ah well - this has warm white LED illumination, so you can actually see it in the dark.
Then got the centre console fitted. All working spot on.
A bizarre thing is that the casette holder that I bought for the car does not fit.
It is way too tall.
And eventually my emissions related parts turned up.
An engine management coolant temperature sensor,
and a throttle / CO control switch.
What was strange, was that I had to turn the throttle / CO sensor by 90 degree for it to lign up and engage onto the throttle flap spindle.
Not sure if that is normal, or just indicative of a mis-aligned throttle body flap.
So after reconnecting the battery - to force an ECU relearn, the car failed to start...
Flat battery - bugger.
So that will be on charge over-night.
Seem to have an issue with flat batteries at the moment my vectra-b remote key fob has a flat battery, so couldn't test the remote central locking module.
Although I did get my Meta Alarm M8 full closure module wired up, and all appears to work correctly. I had to trawl through my WIP (page 34), to remind me which wire went where).
After speaking to my mechanic this evening we both agree that the catalyst is probably dead and needs replacing.
(I was at his garage to collect our Vectra-C after passing it's MOT).
So outstanding work now includes: -
1 - fit the other seats
2 - tap out one 7/16" fine thread for the rear left seat belt anchor bolt.
(I have no idea why a standard seat belt bolt thread is imperial and not metric on a European car).
3 - fit front footwell kick panels.
4 - get a new cat fitted.
5 - finish fitting the steering collumn covers.
And then we should be MOT ready.
I will review any upgrade options or changes later.
So finally got most of the dash reassembled.
Glove box in, cigarette lighter and ashtray, and a cut down heater panel.
I know I have one somewhere, but cannot quite locate my complete panel.
Ah well - this has warm white LED illumination, so you can actually see it in the dark.
Then got the centre console fitted. All working spot on.
A bizarre thing is that the casette holder that I bought for the car does not fit.
It is way too tall.
And eventually my emissions related parts turned up.
An engine management coolant temperature sensor,
and a throttle / CO control switch.
What was strange, was that I had to turn the throttle / CO sensor by 90 degree for it to lign up and engage onto the throttle flap spindle.
Not sure if that is normal, or just indicative of a mis-aligned throttle body flap.
So after reconnecting the battery - to force an ECU relearn, the car failed to start...
Flat battery - bugger.
So that will be on charge over-night.
Seem to have an issue with flat batteries at the moment my vectra-b remote key fob has a flat battery, so couldn't test the remote central locking module.
Although I did get my Meta Alarm M8 full closure module wired up, and all appears to work correctly. I had to trawl through my WIP (page 34), to remind me which wire went where).
After speaking to my mechanic this evening we both agree that the catalyst is probably dead and needs replacing.
(I was at his garage to collect our Vectra-C after passing it's MOT).
So outstanding work now includes: -
1 - fit the other seats
2 - tap out one 7/16" fine thread for the rear left seat belt anchor bolt.
(I have no idea why a standard seat belt bolt thread is imperial and not metric on a European car).
3 - fit front footwell kick panels.
4 - get a new cat fitted.
5 - finish fitting the steering collumn covers.
And then we should be MOT ready.
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Good work, most rewarding I would imagine!
Why would the cat be faulty? Was it borderline on last test?
Might benefit from a good blast!
Alan
Why would the cat be faulty? Was it borderline on last test?
Might benefit from a good blast!
Alan
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Emissions were 4 times max limit.
Cat is still the original, and the car just smells like an old over-rich carburretor car.. The old pre-cat smell from my youth.
Max limit on a C20NE = 0.3% CO
Actually reading at last test = 1.2% CO.
From my understanding, if the test voltage across the lambda is high, then chances are it is a sensor in the engine management circuit.
If voltage is normal, then chances are that the cat is dead.
Cat is still the original, and the car just smells like an old over-rich carburretor car.. The old pre-cat smell from my youth.
Max limit on a C20NE = 0.3% CO
Actually reading at last test = 1.2% CO.
From my understanding, if the test voltage across the lambda is high, then chances are it is a sensor in the engine management circuit.
If voltage is normal, then chances are that the cat is dead.
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Ideal for an inhibitor switch - please send me the details RobRobsey wrote: And a less obvious observation was that my car has a big yellow connector for a factory fit alarm.
My connector has a cap on it.
[ Image ]
Within the cap is a bridging piece that shorts two pins. (I won't advise on a public page, which two pins are shorted together).
With the cap removed, the car will not start.
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Remind me to send those plugs Rob! Sorry, I forgot the other day.
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
No need to post them Gary.
I will see you on Wednesday evening.
Lunch, a chat and Cav spares.
And the big news is.
The Cav has an MOT some 27 months after it was taken off the road due to a completely rotten body shell.
So I think that calls for coffee and cake
I will see you on Wednesday evening.
Lunch, a chat and Cav spares.
And the big news is.
The Cav has an MOT some 27 months after it was taken off the road due to a completely rotten body shell.
So I think that calls for coffee and cake
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Fantastic news Rob!
Just in time for the nice weather.
Just in time for the nice weather.
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
I cannot complain about the weather.
I was off from work for part of last week and early this week.
The three days that I scheduled to work on the Cav were all quite warm and sunny.
Sadly, the rains have arrived this evening, so I fear you may have got the timing wrong.
Cav is now taxed too, so 100% road legal.
This thread now moves from the restoration phase to rolling project phase.
Our Vectra-C can now sigh with relief after being hammered for two years.
She can now take it easy during the week.
Being used only for weekend trips and holidays.
I was off from work for part of last week and early this week.
The three days that I scheduled to work on the Cav were all quite warm and sunny.
Sadly, the rains have arrived this evening, so I fear you may have got the timing wrong.
Cav is now taxed too, so 100% road legal.
This thread now moves from the restoration phase to rolling project phase.
Our Vectra-C can now sigh with relief after being hammered for two years.
She can now take it easy during the week.
Being used only for weekend trips and holidays.