My 46k 2.0 LS Cavalier

[Robsey]

The simple answer is....

If the car was due it's MOT after the 30th March 2020, then the MOT expiry has been extended by 6 months.
But
It is still an offence to operate a car that is not roadworthy.

So - in my interpretation...
If your MOT expired before this date, and it is needed for essential work or essential trips, then yes it is recommended to get the car MOT'd along with any advised remedial work.

If your car is an essential vehicle, and you are not sure if the car is roadworthy, then again an MOT is recommended, along with any advised remedial work.

---------

If the car is not essential, then, no.. wait until the lock down has been lifted.

If the car is safe to the best of your knowledge,
and it is working properly and the MOT is due from 1st April onwards -
Then I would say no it is not recommended to take the car in for an MOT until the restrictions are lifted.

Common sense really.

[3cav3]

The mot ran out in January, it's not essential at the moment per say , however my wife is classed as a key worker and this would be her only means of transport to work if her panda was to break down. I've given her car a full service in order to minimise this. One thing I did turn up is the master cylinder for the clutch is starting to go, probably only in the early stages but no guarantee, i can't easily repair without a ramp and can't spare the car for a couple of days whist the garage repairs it. I can drive without a clutch no problem but she can't.
I think the best way to play it will be to carry out the jobs on the cavalier in my garden, then if her panda was to fail I'll get the cavalier quickly motd otherwise leave it till we get to the other side.

[3cav3]

Does anyone have a diagram for where all the door card fixings are as I've misplaced my Haynes manuals?

[Robsey]

Self Tapping Screws.
All screws are Philips No2.

There are three or four self tappers across the bottom of the door pocket.

The plastic piece around the door inner release handle needs to be pulled off from the door pull moulding, to expose 2 x self tappers.

At the bottom of the door pull moulding is a deep recess, with a self tapper inside.

Hidden hook type tang.
The next bit is pretty well hidden -
from the front of the door, look towards the rear of the door pocket where it curves upward. (Under the rear of the armrest padding).
There is a slot in there, through which you need to push a detent / tang, to release the card from the inner skin.

Plastic Pegs.
All around the periphery of the door car are several plastic pegs.
In an ideal world, these would be squeezed to release them from the metal inner door skin.

I recommend a forked plastic trim removal tool for this.

Careless tugging of the card from the door could cause some of the peg mounts to be torn from the door card.

Removal from the door
Last of all,
holding the bottom of the card away from the door,
Wiggle the card and ease up away from the door plunger and past the bottom edge of the door mirror inner plastic cover.

That's it.

[Robsey]

Do not forget to unplug wiring for :-

The door speaker (front doors only).

The electric mirror switch (driver's door only, where fitted).

The kerb light (all doors, where fitted).

To be honest, the Haynes manual isn't too clear about some aspects of door card removal.

And there are very few photos / illustrations.

[3cav3]

Thank you again Robsey. Thought you'd probably know. Just fierd the old girl up and went to move it onto the patio as it's a nice dry area to work on, but unfortunately it ran out of petrol blocking my drive. Oh darn, or words a little bit stronger, luckily the mower had a full tank so managed to drain enough out to get it started back up and moved. Got a feeling she's throwing a tantrum in response to being off the road so long.

[Robsey]

Pictures for the door card removal.









The bottom image shows the location of the hidden tang. Under the armrest / rear of door pocket.

Running out of fuel?
Sods law.
Better now, than when the missus needs it for work.

Just for info, the images are from TIS, which almost always gives diagrams for Euro spec, hence left door with mirror control.

[3cav3]

Pictures are great, thanks. Oddly the window switches are by the hand brake. The door cards don't have any holes for winders so I'm guessing it's factory?

[Robsey]

Yes, that is perfectly normal for an LSi.

The switches in the panel of the door are for electric / heated door mirrors, normally fitted to higher spec models, such as CD / CDX, Diplomat etc.

Most facelift LSi cavaliers have electric front windows, with the two control switches in the centre console.
(4 switches for higher spec models with electric rear windows)

And most cars will not have kerb lights in the door pockets. (Again - very high spec only).
--------------------------------
A boffin could move the window switches to the doors with some carefully thought out wiring modifications,
The correct handle covers,
And rear electric door window switches.

And kerb lights are a very easy upgrade.
A few wires inside the door,
And one wire to the door dip-switch on the loom to the door.

[3cav3]

To be honest with you I'd be happy just to get the window closing again. Wiring tends to hurt my brain. So won't be moving switches or adding things, plus I kind of like that this car is a low spec, it seems to me that most of the survivors tend to be Sri, gsi etc.
On the plus side, the cost of insurance seems to be coming down for these bog standard ones, just had a quote today of £130 for me and the wife on a classic policy with an agreed value of £1500. If it had an MOT, and if I was allowed to drive it I would be taking it out now and taxing it. Roll on the end of restrictions.

[Robsey]

, it seems to me that most of the survivors tend to be Sri, gsi etc.

GSi's, 4x4s and Turbos are harder to keep on the road.
They are more prone to rot than all other types.
So when one comes along, their relative rarity makes them more desirable for restoration.

SRi's are popular for the styling..

Diplomats, CD / CDXs etc; are popular for the extra toys.

Even standard models L / LSi and GL / GLSi are increasing in popularity as a good reliable work-horse despite their age.

Unfortunately, I am the black sheep of the forum, with an LSi with lots of added gadgets and toys.. plus a few SRi bits.

Oddly, the bits I have added work perfectly fine at the moment.
It is the factory fit central locking that gives me the most hassle.

[3cav3]

Yeah, mines just an LS which I believe is the equivalent of the old L. Wish I could of kept my 89 L but needed the cash to pay the solicitors fees when I bought my house.

[3cav3]

On eBay it's listing 2 pin motors and 6 pin motors, do you know which one is want?

[Robsey]

I think all regulator assemblies should have 6 round pins.

Although the motor itself only has two wires.
The polarity of each wire dictates whether the glass lifts or lowers.

Have you checked the connectors, and also the black box which contains the "pulse pick-up"?

I suspect that if it isn't the loom in the door frame, then the next weakest link is the pulse pick-up.

[3cav3]

Probably shows my stupidity, but what's a pulse pick up?

[Robsey]

It is a box that senses the button press from the switch panel.
That is the bit that should have the six pin connector on it.

It detects whether you give a brief or sustained press of the button, and then either lifts the window all the way, or only as long as you hold the button pressed.

Using a bit of Columbo or Jessica Fletcher logic, if the window lowers, then the motor is working.

If it only lowers, then either it is not getting the lift pulse, (broken grey / green wire?)
or the pick-up unit is faulty.

For simple electrics...
Check the wires to the module for voltage.

Red = permanent live. (30 contact)
Door connector pin 30 on facelift car.

Brown = permanent ground (31 contact)
Door connector pin 29

Grey / Green = 12 volts when up switch is pressed.
Door connector pin 18

Blue / Red = 12 volts when down switch is pressed.
Door connector pin 17

Brown / white = ground when door key is turned to 45° in lock barrel.
Door connector pin 21

Red / white = pinch guard controlled via pulse pick-up module.
Door connector pin 12.

[3cav3]

Just trying to decide whether or not I sell this cavalier. The problem is I'm just not able to use as I often as I want.
As you may know a couple of years ago I purchased a house, and even though I love the actual house the neighbors are being complete twats when it comes to parking,( I've even recently had to cure one from the habit of parking in front of my garage!) so I've reached the conclusion that I'm going to have to save up for a detached cottage, so all my surplus cash is going to have to be plowed into clearing some of my existing mortgage instead of paying for things like car tax, insurance etc, even beer. I will probably also sell my Jag.
What I'm basically saying is what would be a fair price,- I can happily put a new MOT on her.
She's not concourse but is a very tidy example, never been welded, or painted,and if I do decide to part with her would there be any interest, a good caring home would be more important than top price.

[3cav3]

I think there's about 53k on the clock now and I could happily service it before sale, there's over 20 main dealer service stamps, once I've found the safe place that I've put the service book.

[James McGrath]

Sorry to hear your having trouble with your neighbours and looking to move because of it.
I wish you all the best with the sale. Hopefully you can find a good home for it.
A few years ago I probably would have been interested. It's rather inconvenient the way mortgages take all your money away isn't it?

[3cav3]

Sorry to hear your having trouble with your neighbours and looking to move because of it.
I wish you all the best with the sale. Hopefully you can find a good home for it.
A few years ago I probably would have been interested. It's rather inconvenient the way mortgages take all your money away isn't it?

Yes, definatley. Its not just the mortgage, its all the other hidden costs like insurance policies and maintence that you dont worry about when renting.
Its a really good car, id like to find a way to keep it, but equally dont want to see it deteriate without being used.
The neighbours are a great shame, I dont get why they think because theyve got almost no parking it suddenly becomes my problem- Our house is on a corner plot so has lots of off road parking. A lot in the cul de sac have non or one. Also the people on the otherside to us seem to think if theyre up then they can make as much noise as they like.

[thomas]

Sorry to hear this too, neighbours, not all, are knob-ends here too, but stuck with them meantime. You'll regret selling the Cavalier, if you do sell. Mark my words! Didn't you recently get some spiffy looking bodywork done, up your way in Fife? I'd appreciate if you passed on the name/contact details of the place concerned to me via pm, or pass the details to the mods to forward privately to me via email possibly, as I was thinking of looking them up regarding work on the Cav, and possibly the Viva or bike (post smidsy, the insurers have agreed to let me keep it and fix it myself, see amended sig), be handy to know. Do keep in touch if you leave the fold.

thomas

[3cav3]

Hi, no I'm afraid it wasn't me having body work done. That's the one big plus on this car even though it's not concourse it's totally original, there's absolutely no trace of any paint work ever.
I know I'll regret selling her but I've got to cut back all unessary expenses to get about £100k together in the next few years to raise enough money to trade my house up. Once the virus has calmed down I'm going to have a fire sale on a lot of collectables.

[thomas]

Hi, no I'm afraid it wasn't me having body work done. That's the one big plus on this car even though it's not concourse it's totally original, there's absolutely no trace of any paint work ever.
I know I'll regret selling her but I've got to cut back all unessary expenses to get about £100k together in the next few years to raise enough money to trade my house up. Once the virus has calmed down I'm going to have a fire sale on a lot of collectables.

Hi, it's Alan, isn't it, whoops, I've mixed you up with Matt, ilovedmymantas, so sorry about that, maybe Matt then could forward the info if he checks this thread.

No probs, as you were!

Good luck with your plans.

[Robsey]

I hope you find a happy resolution to the situation.
Yep, most neighbours can be selfish idiots these days.

I would like to hope that the Cav could stay, but I am sure you have weighed everything up carefully.

Sadly I can barely afford mine at the moment, hence why it is on SORN, so I am unable to help you out on that front.

No matter what the outcome, I hope you will still pop your head in, and keep us updated on your various projects.

Also - just for info, it isn't Alan either - lol.

[3cav3]

Time will tell, I'm just wondering what sort of price with a new test it would be likely be worth .